Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
(OP)
I've tried welding wrought iron ship hull with Fleetweld 5P (6010 and 6011 and 7018) with limited success using stick welding. Problem was a messy weld and it did not flow well. Recommendations?
Also available is MIG. Is there a Flux cored MIG wire that works well on corroded wrough iron plate?
This project is an antique ship restoration - built in 1887 -- http://www2pb.ip-soft.net/railinfo/car-floats/nyc-tugs.html
Also available is MIG. Is there a Flux cored MIG wire that works well on corroded wrough iron plate?
This project is an antique ship restoration - built in 1887 -- http://www2pb.ip-soft.net/railinfo/car-floats/nyc-tugs.html
RE: Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
A couple of things that I have used with fair results is to chemically neautralize the rust before welding (not effective in all cases) and bead blasting (if material thickness permits). Using E-6013 AC mild steel electrodes with a 'buzz box' seems easier than DC in dealing with some corroded metal.
Sorry to say, reading this back, I have no ideal solution.
As a general rule, in automotive type repair and in structural buildings rust removal precedes any welding. In your case that may mean large panel replacements. High dollar. Good luck.
Rod
RE: Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
Blacksmith
RE: Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
Make sure that your electrodes are kept dry at all times, and warm them - a hot box is good - before use. Make sure your polarity is right. 6010 is DC. 6011 can be used on AC and while it can be used on DC machines with reverse polarity it doesn't work as well as 6010. 7018 is AC or DC reverse.
Make sure you're using the right size or diameter electrode for the thickness of the iron, and the right heat. Start in the lower accepted ranges for the size rod and try shortening up your arc length, increasing your hand speed, and just barely staying ahead of the pool. Watch the angle on verticles, stay 15-30 degrees on down verticals and 10-15 degrees on up verticals; and try circular weaves rather than triangular weaves, and vice-a-versa.
Don't run past the cycle of your machine, let it cool. Make sure your lead isn't too long, the ground is good, and with DC you should be looking for arc blow - especially with wrought iron. It has the fewest elements added to it and it's molecules tend to be quite long, so while it's usually very easy to weld, it also is very easily magnetized by welding and arc blow often occurs.
RE: Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron
If it can take bead blasting, by all means either grind or blast until you've got good solid iron to work with. You may have to locate some appropriate wrought iron filler and gas weld. A low-hydrogen arc rod isn't going to be the way to go unless you really prepare the bevel and fit well and have a good root with a backer. I'd still prefer a 60 series. I can't think off hand what would be the best for cast iron, but at any rate, you may have to simply cut out rotted sections and replace with plate using an appropriate rod. That could be tough if your hull has a lot of shape, but regardless, completely removing the rust will go a long way in improving the appearance and ensuring weld strength.
Frankly, I'm a little surprised your plates aren't simply riveted at that age.
RE: Elecyrodes for corroded wrought iron