×
INTELLIGENT WORK FORUMS
FOR ENGINEERING PROFESSIONALS

Log In

Come Join Us!

Are you an
Engineering professional?
Join Eng-Tips Forums!
  • Talk With Other Members
  • Be Notified Of Responses
    To Your Posts
  • Keyword Search
  • One-Click Access To Your
    Favorite Forums
  • Automated Signatures
    On Your Posts
  • Best Of All, It's Free!
*Eng-Tips's functionality depends on members receiving e-mail. By joining you are opting in to receive e-mail.

Posting Guidelines

Promoting, selling, recruiting, coursework and thesis posting is forbidden.

Students Click Here

repair

thread725-27807

repair

repair

(OP)
I have a 1970 Mack truck with a crack in the frame.   the crack is starts on the bottom of the frame travels vert. to the center.  Its in the middle of the rear spring hanger of the front axle.  It is centered between the bolts appox. 2" each way.  It is a single frame 7" web. Doubling will be difficult because the frame is tapered. Not to mention the joy of the trans, fuel tank and the cab.
The pervious suggestions were to slightly perheat, grind out the crack completly, use a termiating hole, weld with a backing plate, and double the frame.
??I'm curious about rod or wire type, affects to tempering of the frame.  what about NR-211 innershied or 11018rod
??how about welding a 15"-5/16 strip of flat stock to the bottom of the frame on the outside??
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

RE: repair

Adding the straps to the bottom of the frame by welding or bolting will certainly reinforce the existing frame but, I would still weld up the crack as described.  The straps are quite common when frames are completely  broken so it should   work ok.  I still prefer a Fitch plate or comething similar.  Just don't get too much heat in the area.  In some frames embrittlement can become a  problem and that is the reason for the doubler.  It just spreads the load away from the repaired area.

Rod

RE: repair

(OP)
thankyou very much fellows!!  what we end up doing is grinding out the crack and welding it with 11018 rod.  its too much work to put in a terminating hole, because we would have to take half the truck apart.  instead of a strap we put on a 15" X 1/4" piece of angle iron to give it vertical suport, and we tapered the ends to avoid hard spots, and sitch welded it to avoid too much heat.  again thanks a lot. I'll update you in a month or so.

Red Flag This Post

Please let us know here why this post is inappropriate. Reasons such as off-topic, duplicates, flames, illegal, vulgar, or students posting their homework.

Red Flag Submitted

Thank you for helping keep Eng-Tips Forums free from inappropriate posts.
The Eng-Tips staff will check this out and take appropriate action.

Reply To This Thread

Posting in the Eng-Tips forums is a member-only feature.

Click Here to join Eng-Tips and talk with other members! Already a Member? Login


News
Close Box

Join Eng-Tips® Today!

Join your peers on the Internet's largest technical engineering professional community.
It's easy to join and it's free.

Here's Why Members Love Eng-Tips Forums:

Register now while it's still free!

Already a member? Close this window and log in.

Join Us             Close