Wood Joist to Steel Beam Web Blocking / Packing

[TB545]

I am connecting 2x6 ceiling joists to a W 8x15 by packing the web with wood and attaching hangars. Would I be able to pack out the web in wood by nailing plywood to the back of 2x6's to get the depth I need to clear the flange or do I really need to rip down solid wood? It looks like I need about 1.875" of wood depth in each web.

 

[MikeHalloran]

I am not connecting your words to a mental image in an unequivocal way.
Maybe a sketch would help.


Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[KootK]

I don't have any problem with it as long as it suits your hanger nailing and the numbers work.

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.

 

[CANPRO]

I think a sketch would help, but I do think I understand what you're saying. You're wondering if the web packing has to be brought past the flange edge. But by the sounds of it, you're also saying you want to use 2x6 in the web. In this case, I think I would show a 2x8 ripped to fit in between the flanges with a piece of 1/2" plywood on the backside of the 2x8 (plywood closest to the beam web). This will bring the 2x8 just past the radius between the flange and web of the beam and you can get good bearing on the bottom of the 2x8 packing. Typically I show the top of the timber joist about 1/4" or more above the top of the steel beam so that when the timber shrinks and dries, you don't end up with a hump in the floor along the length of the steel beam (don't know if this applies to you).

see attached for crudely drawn detail.

http://files.engineering.com/getfil...f-471b-8cd9-77c891af2893&file=beam_detail.pdf

 

[msquared48]

Just put the plywood next to the web. These are only ceiling joists, so no worries with hangers. Recommend stitch bolting the infill to the web
though.


Mike McCann, PE, SE (WA)

 

[XR250]

FWIW, I have had problems in the past where beams were a 1/4" or so wider than they should be according to AISC tables. So I would add enough backing to get the ripped 2x8 out a little from the flanges.