Wood Beam Roll Over - Residential Pier & Beam construction

[Eldorado]

I typically stack wood floor joists on top of wood beams for residential floor constuction. At the perimeter of my beam layer, I typically have an edge beam perpendicular to my joist supporting beams in the same plane. I'd like to delete the perpendicular beam and just provide beams in one direction. If my embeds are adequate to resist rolling, is there a reason I should still consider keeping the perpendicular beams. I have attached a rough sketch that I hope will better describe the layout. The section shows my joist supporting beam, not the perpendicular beam I'm trying to delete.

Thanks.

 

[woodman88]

How are you planning to transfer the building lateral loads, perpendicular to the beams, to the piers? I am assuming you are just not showing the blocking between the joists in your pdf for the transfer of lateral loads parallel to the beam.

Garth Dreger PE - AZ Phoenix area
As EOR's we should take the responsibility to design our structures to support the components we allow in our design per that industry standards.

 

[TXStructural]

Do not construct without a rim joist to keep joists from rolling.
Having been under a few pier and beam houses where the joists and beams are rolling, even with rim joints, I'd echo Garth's comment. The industry doesn't do a good job of detailing these items. Just for gravity, every joist has to be braced as each beam, and every beam has to be braced at each pier, unless you are using stocky members. And that doesn't even address lateral forces. Your detail is a good start, but what happens when the piers don't line up or the angles are twisted? Also, consider that residential piers seldom extend deep enough (at least around here) to take any lateral forces.

After looking carefully at local practice for residential piers, they are nothing more here than cast-in-place pedestals sitting on top of a 1' x 1' cast-in-place footing bearing on native soil. Roughly equal to one I looked at in another town where it was hollow CMU sitting on top of a small (16"x16"x6" or 2'x2'x6")precast concrete block. Virtually none of these have blocking or bracing, and all exhibit some degree of distress related to this lack of detailing.

 

[MiketheEngineer]

Both are right

 

[Eldorado]

Thanks to all for your input. To clarify, I use rim joists and blocking to take care of my floor joists. My piers are 15' deep and 18" in diameter with 36" bells. Even for my area of the country (San Antonio), my foundation is solid, especially for residential construction.

TXStructual, alignment of the piers is not typically an issue at 18" in diameter. Yes, the angles can be tilted, but I find this better than setting a Simpson CC type saddle in the top of the pier, which is more of an alignment nightmare.

Regarding Lateral bracing, I have suspended concrete structures at opposite corners of the building that I can get substantial lateral resistance from as my framing leans on it.

I guess I'll just keep my beams perpendicular to the joist support beam.

Again,
Thanks