Vertical Load Bearing Single Wythe Brick Veneer

[Ron247]

I have a client that wants to use the following 2 details for a subdivision. Some houses may be 2 story. Detail A is the one that bothers me. They want the single wythe brick veneer to align with the wood stud wall. I already see their vertical bar needs to embed into the foundation but the concept of making the brick veneer load bearing seems to have several potential flaws. Even if they lay the brick while laying the block, I see slight rotation of the foundation possibly losing the bearing of the upper header block on the brick below. This could allow the header block to shear off. At the same time, I see making the detail where it is not reliant on the brick below difficult also.

Any thoughts or suggestions as to how to achieve this detail. Since they want 1 detail for all circumstances, it is not possible to avoid uneven soil bearing completely. I am currently assuming the T.B.D. will be set at 40" max. I am not really concerned about the quality of workmanship from the Client.

 

[phamENG]

Design it as load bearing masonry with sufficient ties into the block to make it act compositely. The airspace isn't going to do much for them on a crawl space, so eliminating that could help with the composite design. Or you could do hollow structural brick (essentially CMU sized brick with cores for reinforcing and grouting). It looks really nice, but it is also pretty expensive.

Looks like your slab is sitting on a shoe block that is straddling the CMU and brick. How about losing the shoe block and doing a turn-down slab onto the foundation wall that cantilevers the 4.5" to carry the wall?

 

[TheDW]

Here's a little discussion by XR250 on a very similar detail

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=457520

 

[Ron247]

This is all Slab On Grade (SOG). They are using Queen brick that courses out every 16" rather than 8" like standard brick. I am going to fill the air space since it is all well below finished floor.

 

[masonrygeek]

As others have said, treat this as loadbearing masonry or a composite wall and not a veneer. In doing so, you fill the cavity solid with mortar or grout and have wall ties that make it work with block backing. I think your biggest issue will be getting the wall ties into the wall near the top of the brick if the coursing doesn't work out perfectly. You might have to use a tie that is attached (drilled) into the backing so that you can get it close to the top (within 12"). Other than that, I have seen these types of brick walls done frequently and as long as the cavity is filled solid the walls work well.

 

[JAE]

Your concrete turn-down under the stud wall needs to be checked for wind uplift and lateral shear capacity.
The stud wall, I presume, is bolted down to the turn-down (not shown) and the turn-down is anchored to the foundation, but eccentric.
A very awkward detail for sure.
I'd worry about:

1. The true uplift resistance - both overall net uplift and braced panel or shear wall overturning uplift.
2. The eccentricity between stud wall anchorage and foundation rebar for uplift.
3. Clay brick below grade slowly degrading under wet-dry conditions and/or possible freeze-thaw conditions....not sure if in cold country or not.
4. The embedded wood sill directly above the brick creates an eccentricity in the stud-to-brick bearing....possibly creating an outward bow in the brick eventually.
5. The embedded wood, even if treated, might be subject to rot and/or termites getting up into the stud wall easily.