I am building a locost 7 using a totaled 2001 blazer. The front steer arms create negative Ackerman. I want to switch the driver's side hub to the passenger side and also swap the passenger side to the drivers side and use a rear steer rack and pinion. I got this idea from looking at a Chevrolet Trailblazer as I believe this is what they di to correct their Ackerman. Appreciate any input from members.
Tek-Tips is the largest IT community on the Internet today!
Members share and learn making Tek-Tips Forums the best source of peer-reviewed technical information on the Internet!
-
Congratulations cowski on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!
swapping the front hubs to cure negative ackerman 1
- Thread starter mike kay
- Start date
I ran into similar questions when building my locost (84 celica GTS donor). I swapped the uprights side-to-side to make them front-steer to accommodate the modified spitfire steering gear. This give the car negative ackerman (toe in during steer).
I dont want to make comment on the parts you have without seeing them, so Ill keep it pretty general.
Running the negative ackerman the car drove fine on the street. I aligned it with with reasonable front toe-out (~0.25-0.5") and the car has a notably long wheelbase 100+". I began drifting the car at local events and it was difficult to control at high counter-steer MA. Redeveloping the steering knuckles to allow for zero-to-positive levels of ackerman made the car way easier to drive at high slip angles, but the car is slower due to the front tires dragging I presume.
Even if your plan is not drifting, toe out will help you recover from spins (think high countersteer). Static toe (alightment) and dynamic toe (ackerman) are useful for controlling initial toe for turn in, and toe at high steering angles. Drag must be balanced through the both of them.
FWIW, my car was last setup with low positive ackerman and high static toe (~0.75" out) to make it tossable and stable at high slip angle. Its a toy that I built in college though, not a seriously developed race or production car.
I dont want to make comment on the parts you have without seeing them, so Ill keep it pretty general.
Running the negative ackerman the car drove fine on the street. I aligned it with with reasonable front toe-out (~0.25-0.5") and the car has a notably long wheelbase 100+". I began drifting the car at local events and it was difficult to control at high counter-steer MA. Redeveloping the steering knuckles to allow for zero-to-positive levels of ackerman made the car way easier to drive at high slip angles, but the car is slower due to the front tires dragging I presume.
Even if your plan is not drifting, toe out will help you recover from spins (think high countersteer). Static toe (alightment) and dynamic toe (ackerman) are useful for controlling initial toe for turn in, and toe at high steering angles. Drag must be balanced through the both of them.
FWIW, my car was last setup with low positive ackerman and high static toe (~0.75" out) to make it tossable and stable at high slip angle. Its a toy that I built in college though, not a seriously developed race or production car.
- Thread starter
- #22
Again I thank all for commenting. I have been dormant because I haven't had time to measure the Ackerman. Thanks for the input evox. I hope we can talk more. Where are you located? I've visited many constructors and especially enjoyed meeting and riding in Rod's Locost 5.0
- Thread starter
- #24
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Question
- Locked
- Question
- Locked
- Question
- Locked
- Question