You might want to consult a dictionary before your next posting, but as I understand your question(s), you are asking about whether to use mineral (vs. synthetic?) oil for new engine break-in, and what a good break-in procedure should be?
First, I'd strongly recommend following whatever break-in procedure a manufacturer specifies, and these procedures can vary somewhat since different manufacturers build engines to different tolerances.
The object of engine break-in is to get various parts, especially piston rings and cylinder walls, seated to each other without scuffing or other damage.
This is best done by avoiding high-heat and high load conditions for a period of time; the length of this period of time will depend on the accuracy of the original machining and the fit of the parts.
My own experience suggests that a sizable number (say 40 - 50 times) of brief periods (2 - 4 seconds) of acceleration in a lower gear up through 2/3 - 3/4 of the maximum engine rpm will give a good break-in. I've run literally thousands of vehicle pass-by noise tests, and a number of the test vehicles I've used uniformly had excellent performance and no oil-consumption for many years thereafter. Other points to consider are that the break-in should only be done on a warm engine, and that prolonged periods of constant-speed operation should be avoided.
Regarding mineral vs synthetic oils: there's no reason I can think of not to use a synthetic oil for break-in. Many high-performance vehicles are shipped this way.
Unless the engine was so poorly-made that the manufacturer is counting on the poorer lubricity of mineral oil to allow scuffing and wear to remove the "high-spots" in the bearing surfaces!
