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Lifting using chain 1
- Thread starter johnfin1
- Start date
ornerynorsk
Industrial
This is a very common way to lift an engine. However, it is recommended to place nothing less than a heavy washer, or more preferably a bushing, between the chain link and the engine casting in addition to the washer under the bolt head in order to protect any machined surfaces.
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
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1
- #3
racookpe1978
Nuclear
How many points are you using to lift the 800 lbs? The chain is drawn (sketched) as if it were coming in at a very significant angle - and that angle greatly increases the final load on the threads.
How deep are the tapped holes into the casting? What diameter tapped threads and what thread type? NOT NPT! Can you test pull the threads before putting your life (your hands or head) in the line when the casting breaks?
First, try to get the two (?) or four chains so they are coming in vertically to the tapped threads.
Don't EVER stand or walk or work UNDER the lifted engine, nor pass it over top of anything you can't replace.
Add safety (backup straps) as soon as possible after the engine is accessible so the safety straps are independent of the tapped holes: they should go from the hook, under the engine, then back to the hook.
How deep are the tapped holes into the casting? What diameter tapped threads and what thread type? NOT NPT! Can you test pull the threads before putting your life (your hands or head) in the line when the casting breaks?
First, try to get the two (?) or four chains so they are coming in vertically to the tapped threads.
Don't EVER stand or walk or work UNDER the lifted engine, nor pass it over top of anything you can't replace.
Add safety (backup straps) as soon as possible after the engine is accessible so the safety straps are independent of the tapped holes: they should go from the hook, under the engine, then back to the hook.
- Thread starter
- #5
I was thinking of using 4) 3/8 intake bolts 1/2-3/4 engagement, would be closer to a vertical lift. Now instead of using the chain against the intake can I use long bolts (2-3" up out of the casting), grade 8 with grade 8 washers? I pulled the engine with the heads off this way using the head bolts. The engine is assembled going in though. Many people use a carb plate which uses the 4) 5/16 carb bolts. My engine is a flathead, hence only 3 bolts for the carb.
ornerynorsk
Industrial
Any other tapped holes on the engine block itself, accessory mounts or anything of that nature?
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
- Thread starter
- #7
Be smart about this. What's the consequences if you're scheme doesn't work? Damage to your engine, car, shop, self, wallet. Be safe, be correct in your method.
Use some lift rings like those found at Carr-Lane
and multiple chains of suitable strength. Or find a fab shop to make something suitable out of angle iron sections, with suitable holes drilled in it.
TygerDawg
Blue Technik LLC
Virtuoso Robotics Engineering
Use some lift rings like those found at Carr-Lane
and multiple chains of suitable strength. Or find a fab shop to make something suitable out of angle iron sections, with suitable holes drilled in it.
TygerDawg
Blue Technik LLC
Virtuoso Robotics Engineering
racookpe1978
Nuclear
I don't see the bolt itself being the problem, but rather the forces being pulled through the bolt into that short of a thread engagement in the casting.
See, the first 1-1/2 female threads in the casting are going to provide almost no strength: they are half-cut, if that, and the typical hole begins slightly oversize at the opening. The first 1 to 1-1/2 male threads on the tip of the bolt are also understrength - since they are also not fully cut, so they won't engage fully into the female threads of the casting.
Net result is increased stress in the few engaged threads in the casting, right at the point where the stress from the entire bolt is trying to "pop" the casting metal out.
See, the first 1-1/2 female threads in the casting are going to provide almost no strength: they are half-cut, if that, and the typical hole begins slightly oversize at the opening. The first 1 to 1-1/2 male threads on the tip of the bolt are also understrength - since they are also not fully cut, so they won't engage fully into the female threads of the casting.
Net result is increased stress in the few engaged threads in the casting, right at the point where the stress from the entire bolt is trying to "pop" the casting metal out.
ornerynorsk
Industrial
Racookpe, I don't believe hole locations are cast in place, I believe they're drilled, which would mean the full thread depth is your typical 75% thread. Not an expert in this field though, so I would digress to someone who knows for sure.
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
It is better to have enough ideas for some of them to be wrong, than to be always right by having no ideas at all.
- Thread starter
- #12
hydromarine
Mechanical
Much better to use the appropriate eye bolt/lifting ring
Yes, eye bolt (shoulder type)is the way to go with hooks on the end of the chain.Additionally, washer to fill in the vacant space created by the boss. That way the shoulder of the eye bolt will rest fully on the washers and not create as much bending action on the top of the boss.
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