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LED system 2

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RustyShackleford1

Electrical
Feb 7, 2015
5
Hi there, new member ...

I want to build a low voltage system consisting of a 120vac-connected custom power supply that drives multiple series-connected strings of removable LEDs.

A 32vdc power supply would drive multiple current regulators, each consisting of an LM317 and a current-setting resistor, and driving a series-connected string of up to 8 removable LEDs. The LEDs would have a forward voltage drop of about 3v and a nominal forward current of 350ma or so.

Allowing for the 3v drop of the LM317, and some wiring drop etc, the 32vdc supply should allow 8 or 9 LEDs in each string (assuming the variation in LED forward voltages averages out). If a string only has 1 or 2 LEDs, there will be a pretty significant drop across the LM317, so they should have good heat dissipation, perhaps TO-220 packages screwed to a metal chassis.

By putting a potentiometer in series with a fixed resistor on each LM317, dimming should be achievable. The fixed resistor would be sized so that when the pot is at 0 ohms, the LEDs in the string are at maximum desired brightness (current 2-3x nominal, or up to 1 amp). With the pot rotated the other way, the string is effectively "off".

Since the LEDs in each string are removable, they can potentially be connected with reverse biasing (correct polarization of the LEDs cannot be guaranteed). So each LED will be packaged with an "anti-parallel" (anode of each connected to cathode of the other) ordinary silicon diode (such as 1N4007). When the LED/diode pair is installed one way, the LED is forward-biased and the 1N4007 reverse-biased (the diode can handle the possible 32v reverse voltage indefinitely). If installed the other way, the forward-voltage spec of the 1N4007 insures that the reverse voltage on the LED cannot exceed 1.5v or so (and the Cree LEDs I'll likely use tend to allow 5v).

The same problem as old-fashioned Christmas lights exists: if one burns out, the whole series string is killed. But LEDs have lifetimes in the 10,000s or hours, so the MTBF of a string of 8 should still be long. The culprit can quickly be identified by reversing each connection until the string lights up (because the 1N4007 paired with the dead LED will then be forward-biased).

LEDs in each string will be guaranteed to have the same current and similar brightness. Extra-bright assemblies can have 2 or more LEDs in series (protected by a "backwards" silicon diode).

I'd appreciate any comments on the above, thanks !



 
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Recommended for you

[ul]
[li]LEDs need a current-controlled driver, not a voltage regulator, because they have such a flat forward voltage characteristic.[/li]
[li]Use a switch-mode regulator rather than a linear. That will improve your efficincy considerably, and you won't need a big and expensive heatsink for the regulator.[/li]
[li]China turns these things out so cheap that you can't compete. You likely can't even buy the components for the price they can deliver the complete package.[/li]
[/ul]
 
I've never seen a data sheet where the reverse voltage wasn't listed at 5V. I've never seen a LED where the reverse voltage wasn't tested at less than 170V. I've be testing them from the 70's. Skip the reverse diode.
 
Thanks, folks, for the replies.

Yes, I realize LEDs want constant current; I thought I was pretty clear about that, but I guess not. All my talk of voltage was simply that I wanted to make sure that the series-connected string does not require too high of a voltage to maintain the constant current (and I cannot start with higher than 32vdc or so).

Can you provide a link (or part #) of a switch-mode current regulator ? I see the ones at Deal Extreme, but it doesn't look like they allow driving as high voltages as I need (30+v, to provide forward voltage of 8-9 series LEDs). Also, the dimming issue.

As far as cost, I'm gonna pay $30+ for an AGT 32vdc supply, and then probably less than a buck per "channel" for the LM317 plus resistor/pot.

As far as reverse voltage, most of Cree's lighting-class LEDs have a maximum reverse bias of 5v or so; go to:


... and look at the data sheet.
 
There's plenty of LED system hardware on eBay. Even if you want to design and build your own systems from scratch, at least you'll see how the standard consumer systems are made. E.g. 12 volts seems to be a standard. Plenty to learn just by browsing. There are all sorts of LED strips (various colours and RGB), power supplies, controllers, you name it.

In general, the eBay vendors ship almost immediately; whereas Deal Extreme seems to sit on orders for an additional week or more before shipping. I've previously bought quite a bit from Deal Extreme, but the typical eBay vendor seems to be better in terms of price, variety, shipping speed. YMMV



 
As with Opera, I have never seen a datasheet in my life for anything other than Vr=5V... it's a dumb spec these days and means practically nothing other than someone needed a blank to fill in.

Why one wouldn't go with a canned solution if the quantity is less than 10k units per month is beyond me...

Dan - Owner
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OperaHouse and MacGyver, I'm confused. If the reverse voltage is listed as 5v, how do you know it was tested at a higher voltage ?

The reason I don't go with a canned solution is because, as I said, I want to be able to drive 8 series-connected LEDs, and that requires the current source to be able to go up to 30v or so. I also want it to be dimmable. If there is an off-the-shelf solution that can provide that, please tell me.

 
Do the 8 LEDs have to be in series?

Consumer products are typically in parallel. If complications are required, there are modules that can be individually addressed. Often used as building blocks for full motion signage.

Of course we can't see all of your requirements through the Internet, so I'll assume you have good reasons for the custom configuration.
 
Yes, the LEDs need to be in series. The point is to make DIY "bulbs" that are simply an LED (probably plus the reverse-voltage protection diode). Regular 12v LED bulbs need to incorporate a current regulator (and perhaps a rectifier if they're to work off 12vac); I'm basically factoring out the rectifier and regulator. I want to make DIY bulbs because any off-the-shelf 12v LED bulbs (at least any I can find with the ubiquitous wedge-base) look like crap; I want to be able to use LEDs with really good light quality, like Cree probably.
 
Try it yourself. Connect any cheap LED to a 47K resistor and plug it into a 120V outlet. Let it run for a week. If you have an isolated scope, put the resistor on the neutral side and look for any sigh of reverse current.

Want a cheap switching regulator? Get one of those LM2596 modules they sell on ebay for about a buck. Put a resistor in the lower leg of the LED stream. Calculate the resistance for the desired current, the sense voltage is about 1.2V. I just bought some inline LED PWM dimmers on ebay, 5 for $5 shipped.
 
Meanwell has numerous LED drivers that attach directly to AC and give you the desired output current you need and have an input for a 100k pot for manual dimming (or 0-10V analog or 10v PWM).
Check out the LPF series for example. $25 or so off the shelf, all one piece and done.
I use them all the time
 
The LM317 idea has some merit they make great current controllers.
mA = 1.2/R

I have a 4 - 20 mA calibrator I made over 30 years ago based on a 317.
It adds mA in steps of 1, 2, 4, 8 and 12 giving me any whole mA value between 4 and 31. In those 30 years I have replaced several switches but never had to re-calibrate it.
 
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