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Help with gearbox design

Squilt

Student
Joined
Jul 18, 2025
Messages
4
I'm making an electric recumbent tricycle. The first speed reduction from the motor will use spur gears. The gearbox is limited in size. I'm using a 23 tooth pinion and 110 tooth gear. Module 1. The pinion will reach up to 13k rpm at top speed, meaning a pitch line velocity of over 15m/s. This combined with the small diameter pinion means that simple splash lubrication isn't enough, and I need to design the housing in a specific way to keep oil in the mesh.

I struggled to find any helpful info online. When I reached a dead end, I decided to make my own data by testing different housing designs. When I first started testing, my biggest concern was how much power I would lose to churning oil. Efficiency is a key goal in this project. I was worried that my initial design with very tight axial and radial clearance between the gears and the housing would sap too much power.

When I got my first test together I found that power loss was not the biggest concern. My initial design did nothing to keep the oil where it needed to be, and at high speeds, I could clearly hear that the gear mesh was running dry.
Screenshot_20250717_201231_Gallery.jpg
After six iterations, I have some designs that work. But I think it would be stupid of me to finalize anything without seeking advice from competent people.

Here are my findings and my questions.

I started with high radial and axial clearances(1/2" & 1/8") with the intention of bringing them down until things worked the way I want. I then got to the minimum I was comfortable with(.03" & .04") and though it got better, I was having the same issues at high speeds. Increasing the oil level helped across all the tests, but it limited the top speed because my setup was power limited.
Screenshot_20250717_201310_Gallery.jpg
For my fourth test, I had to change something else. I had seen images in research papers of gearbox tests that utilized baffles/oil guides and a false floor between the gears and sump. My initial design was so compact that it didnt have a sump. The first time I implemented these changes, the difference was dramatic. My assumption is that the sump and false floor allowed more oil to be present without increasing the fill line and therefore drag.
Screenshot_20250717_205327_Gallery.jpg
Immediately following this test, I tested another design featuring slight changes based on the research papers' images. I changed the housing to fill the area where oil exits the mesh and empty the area where oil entered the mesh. The effect was that it seems to concentrate the oil in the area leading into the mesh, which led to the best lubrication and least churning losses so far.
Screenshot_20250717_201408_Gallery.jpg
I believe this last change was most important of them all, and applying it to my first design with no sump and no false floor, I was able to get similar performance, though the oil level was more critical than with a sump. Filling slightly too low would lead to insufficient lubrication at high speeds, and slightly too high would bog it down.
Screenshot_20250717_203903_Gallery.jpg
I want to know if there are any glaring changes I should make to my design. I would very much appreciate if someone could point me to examples of gearboxes like this, because I can't find anything.

I also want to ask:
• I tested with 75w90 and 5w-20, but now that I have some power and temperature data, I've realized that I need ISO VG 32 gear oil. I expect the gearbox to operate at around 50-60°c. Does this sound right?
• I need stronger gears, but I can't increase pitch or tooth count. I plan to buy two high quality pinions with a 8mm face width, and sandwich them together to make a 16mm wide gear. I'll do the same with the larger gear. I have access to a machine shop and expect to be able to line up the teeth very well. Any issues you see with this? Any tips?
• I plan to put a max of 21kw through these gears. From the tooth strength and surface pitting calculations, a 16mm face width should give me a good safety factor. Does this sound right?
 
Operating temp will have lots of variables: Max torque load, is that max tq constant or intermittent, will the motor be constant use or intermittent, if intermittent then for how long, and of course your ability to keep things lubricated. Does 50-60C sound right? Maybe.

13k rpm is obviously quite high, your will want to make sure you are using an oil designed for such speeds to avoid frothing and shear when used for extended periods of time. If your temp estimate is correct then that is in your favor at least, that's a pretty mild temp for most oils.

How do you plan to join your gears together? In a past life I worked a lot with stamped gears that would then be assembled into stacks. They would be staked & riveted, brazed, or both. Sometimes welded, though warping from the uneven weld heat can (will) cause alignment nightmares. Brazing can as well although the more even heating typically keeps things a little straighter.

What are the gears made of, and how were they made? Hardened?

I'm used to fairly low speed systems which I'm sure high speeds can present their own challenges, but from what I ballpark your tq to be I think your combined gear thickness should be enough, given correct material selection.
 
I'm not very sure about the operating temperature. I expect the continuous load to be no more than 6kw, only sustaining 21kw for about 10 seconds at a time. If the temperatures exceed my estimates, I could easily add cooling.
How do you plan to join your gears together?
I plan to use dowel pins pressed through each. Thinking about using machine screws as well.
What are the gears made of, and how were they made? Hardened?
The larger gear is made of 45 steel, hobbed(I think) and induction hardened. For the pinion, I have a choice between two 8mm wide KHK gears that are induction hardened to HRC 50-60 and precision ground from 45 steel. Or two 10mm wide gears straight from China that, like the larger gear, are hobbed(I think), induction hardened to an unknown hardness, and made from 45 steel.
 
If it's for a mass produced item, use helical gears with a small twist.

I would recommend using an oil pump to drip or spray oil onto one of the gears, probably the larger one, ahead of the mesh. This could be as small a nozzle as 1 mm diameter. Look at how chainsaws push oil to lubricate the chain for a mechanism that can operate at a very high RPM with a very low flow requirement. Minor changes would increase the flow available. This is with a mechanical coupling; since this is a battery powered vehicle one could also use an electrically driven pump, offering the ability to program a controller for it. For example, a higher flow rate under higher acceleration for a given speed.

Using an oil pump would remove the housing design and sensitivities from the lubrication problem.
 
I wondered about reducer sump temperature and made the attached spreadsheet just to try to understand in rough terms - maybe it will help you.
 

Attachments

If it's for a mass produced item, use helical gears with a small twist.
Just a personal project. I'd consider helical if I could source them.
Using an oil pump would remove the housing design and sensitivities from the lubrication problem.
This would not be too difficult to implement, and would have many upsides. However, it would add a lot of failure points. I'll consider it if I can't get splash lubrication to work reliably.
 
Though, it might be necessary if I can't effectively filter out wear particles with the splash system. My current design will only have an oil volume of about 80ml. I can install a magnetic drain plug, but I'm not sure if I could implement a filter. I observed some flow between the two oil passages in the false floor beneath each gear. With the pinion spinning clockwise, the larger gear pulled oil up out of the sump, causing oil to get pulled back into the sump from the pinion side. The issue is that I doubt there's enough pressure there to be able to cover the opening with a filter.

Gearbox 2.PNG(there's an opening beneath each gear that isn't visible)
 
Operating temp will have lots of variables: Max torque load, is that max tq constant or intermittent, will the motor be constant use or intermittent, if intermittent then for how long, and of course your ability to keep things lubricated. Does 50-60C sound right? Maybe.

13k rpm is obviously quite high, your will want to make sure you are using an oil designed for such speeds to avoid frothing and shear when used for extended periods of time. If your temp estimate is correct then that is in your favor at least, that's a pretty mild temp for most oils.

How do you plan to join your gears together? In a past life I worked a lot with stamped gears that would then be assembled into stacks. They would be staked & riveted, brazed, or both. Sometimes welded, though warping from the uneven weld heat can (will) cause alignment nightmares. Brazing can as well although the more even heating typically keeps things a little straighter.

What are the gears made of, and how were they made? Hardened?

I'm used to fairly low speed systems which I'm sure high speeds can present their own challenges, but from what I ballpark your tq to be I think your combined gear thickness should be enough, given correct material selection.
ar 13k rpm to my opinion
gear material surface hardness is not sufficient
gears are not precise enough.
the gears require precision tooth to tooth
and total composite error.
pitch diameters precise to control backlash.
(please provide backlash)
measurement over wires controls pitch diameter.
splicing two gears is out of the question.
please consult the agma specifications
for the agma quality required.
the hertz contact surface must be sufficient
to prevent pitting.
the torque is low . so I recommend nitride parts. core harden then nitride gear teeth.
lead error must be precise, again consult
agma specifications.
for lubrication to work properly there must be precise backlash. and adequate supply of gear lube. as suggested spray nozzle may be better. sump works better for low rpm.
what is the input torque and rpm, vs the out put torque and rpm?
 

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