Domestic Water Pressure Test

[invent11]

Should one include Water Heater & Mixing valves as a part of a domestic water pressure test? In this case hydraulic pressure specified in dwg is 150psig and P&T pressure setting is also 150 psig so i think not including the WH part of my test unless it is common/best industrial practice and necessary. How about temp. mixing valve, shower mixing vlv? Are these remain on system during the test,fully open or to be removed and replaced w/ pipe spools?

 

[BigInch]

As a general rule I would think it is preferrable to exclude equipment that has been pressure tested once already. There is little point exposing it to the potential abuse of a field hydro where pressure rises due to temperature changes, excessive pressue due to elevation differences, or just plain old simple exposure to dirt and delaterous materials, may not be so carefully controlled as within a shop, or where relief valves may be some of the equipment blocked off. However, if reasonable care is taken in specific situations, risks can be minimized to be within acceptable levels.

Let your acquaintances be many, but your advisors one in a thousand’ ... Book of Ecclesiasticus

 

[PEDARRIN2]

I am not sure why a domestic water system would have a hydraulic pressure of 150 psig.

The plumbing code I am familiar with, International Plumbing Code, limits the pressure to 80 psig, otherwise you have to install some means of reducing the pressure, either a PRV or a pressure regulator. You would also have to make sure your piping was rated for that high pressure since the plumbing code, again the IPC, has verbiage about maximum pressures of piping which could be less than 150 psig.

Also, I am not sure what type of domestic fixtures you will have - but I doubt the warranty would allow pressures that high.