Metalguy is correct: any dissolved salts (ionic solids) will accumulate and create problems by absorbing moisture and causing galvanic/pitting corrosion. And, non-ionic solids can contribute to microbial attack.
Comments & questions:
1) What is the age of the coating?
2) What is your climate, T range & sunlight exposure?
3) Rain? sometimes rain-washed areas last much longer than where deposits accumulate. If so, washing helps.
4) What was the initial surface prep? Mill scale? Blasted to white metal and promptly coated? Zinc-coated grit is available if cannot coat promptly and prevents flash rusting.
5) Alternatively, treating the blasted metal with a dilute phosphoric acid-type wash primer is a good pretreatment. See
for references to MIL specs. that you can download from ASSIST:
6) Galvanic corrosion can occur between mill scale and steel, as well as between the constituent ferrite & carbide phases of the steel.
7) ‘Penetrating’ sealer is only meaningful if you have something porous, like concrete.
8) Aluminum paint as applied is only a barrier layer. It doesn’t give galvanic protection unless in direct contact with steel. You are better off with a zinc-rich epoxy primer.
9) Topcoat should be polyurethane, not epoxy, for UV resistance. Of course, must be compatible with primer.
10) Please describe the failure mode in more detail. Are the layers adhering to each other? Is the paint failing in spots & then corrosion spreading beneath?