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Just to be easy to understand, do not store anthing more than 2000 lbs. So if you store stuff on the shelf, dont go over 8000 lbs (2000 per leg).

I am a pretty green engineer so dont take anything for granted. My understanding is that you just design the slab/wall to whatever loads you have. Then look a ACI 7.12.2.1 and make sure your current reinforcement is more than the rho given on 7.12.2.1. If its less, then increase the steel.

I just recently bought a house and found 1979 penthouse magazine underneath the dead space under the stairs haha. It sounds like buttress would be a lot easier to do. This is what I would do although I dont have remediation experience ( I just design it correctly at first place :)). Take the...

put nothinng over 2000 lbs concentrated load I meant. So if you put a car in there, each wheel cannot be more than 2000 lbs. Not that you are going to put a car in there.

I guess the total load u can have would be 100psf X 12' X 40' =48000 lbs!!!! Thats HUGE!!! If I were you I would put 100 psf limit and put nothing over 2000 lbs (from IBC for concentrated load).

According to IBC the floor has to be designed for: Residential: 40 psf (yours is way over this) Storage LIGHT : 125 psf (slightly higher) Storage Heavy : 250 psf (more for large commercial storage with heavy equipment) so you should post 100 psf on the sign. If you have more than 100 psf, it...

I'm not a PE but im a structural eng. working in denver metro area. I think your foundation was not design properly. One of the straight foundation wall is too long. They shoud have installed a counter fort or buttress to break the wall span in to 2 spans. I think thats why it is bowing. If...

forgot to mention, my designs are mostly w/ basement so the walls are more than 10' high. So I design it like a tank.

I would go buy PCA rectangular concrete tanks book. It is very helpful. I use it a lot for residential design. Thi is what I do but you need the book I mentioned above. When I design for the reinforcement, I consider it as fixed at the bottom and free at top. But when I use the table from...

I dont think you reduce the skin friction.

oopss correction.. .262 degree.. forgot to change it to foot.

So is it fair to say that the wall is tilted about 3.14 degree (arc tan of 5.5/100) ? Since you dont see any cracks on the foundation then I assume the whole structure is tilted 3.14 degree? Or is it possible they made and error with the foundation and the wall on one side is taller than the...

How about the top of the wall at both points? are they 5.5" difference also? what type of soil is it?

Oh, after reading your post again, the reason they suggest drilled piers was not because of expansive soil i guess. I guess its because of the slope. So disregard my posts.

Oh also, if you do decide to use slab on grade, I would put control joints and do not tie the slab into the foundation. Maybe put 1/2" Exp. where it meets the foundation/grade beam so that the slab will not lift the whole house.

Is this retaining wall going to be butt up againts a house? The soil engineer should give you active and at rest pressure. Use at rest pressure (usually larger) if its going to be butt up agiants a house. Use active pressure if its purely only a retaining wall. Now I suggest using an excel...

I wouldnt put slab on grade on expasive soil if it was my design. Here in colorado, a lot of people put slab on grade on their expansive soil to save cost (shorter foundation walls, easier to build), and they end up having cracked slab and unlevel slab. Here is the theory, if you for some...

I am a little confused with your question. If the column is 8" thick, and the W 14x30 is 6.73" thick, I dont understand how the plate is sticking out the wall? How thick is the wall? Is it W14x30 supported by HSS on both sides? Sorry, a little confused with the wordings.