The distortion will always be constant but I'm thinking of how to make it at least uniform so that I might filter it out more easily. I'll know the position of both axes at all times so theoretically I could always make a software adaptive filter for post processing but it will be a lot more...
...I'm sure there's some out there and I'd love to see something similar that's been fleshed out a bit more before starting toward an experiment.
**I guess what I'm really trying to accomplish can be described as a rotary prism, but I want to try to place the axes in a way that delivers as...
Thanks for the suggestions! I was pressed for time and had to go to different tech, but now I have another (longer) opportunity so I'll try to work this out a bit more. I think I mentioned that the resistance values at least that I read in that diagram, I put back into the simulated circuit...
I would like to run a smartphone using a primary battery instead of rechargeable for a project I'm experimenting with.
Most phone batteries will have a connector of some type with 4 contacts. Of course two of those I'd expect to be +- Voltage, but the other two compose some sort of mystery input...
No, there's no requirement- it just means I have to adapt the system to match what is possible. I'd be content with VGA if that's the best I can do, or I'd be even more content with 4k video if that were possible. The former just means that I'd definitely move onto a plan of saving HD video...
I'm not asking for 4.8Gbps- I'm feeling out what I can get. If I have to compromise and save some video locally and send a very low bandwith feed out, that's a possibility.
Thanks! Sorry for the delayed reply here, evidently I don't get notifications via email anymore? Anyway, I drifted back here to read up on an alternative idea I had- I could possibly use wifi in lieu of a slip ring in this module, although I would just put a wifi receiver where the slip ring...
Hi,
I'm evaluating a concept that is similar to this vintage bath spa/jet system- particularly in its use of AC power. Modern similar products tend to use a DC converter at the plug or inline with the cord.
The reason this configuration uses AC is because it contains a heater and would be...
IRstuff:
Let's say typical Commercial optical tolerance as listed here.
Macgyver/lumenharold:
These are good ideas that I should consider, I already have all the materials and setup to do s reasonable test. I would need the end result to be rigid, but I definitely feel like I could pull the...
Hi,
So I didn't think I'd have as much trouble as I am in prototyping what I've learned is called a "hyperhemisphere" (at least among the SPDT people). Basically a hollow globe with a hole in it around 30-50% of the diameter- similar to a snow globe. In fact, we used a mini glass snow globe...
Page 5 of this datasheet has a nice list of outputs from a remote module camera sensor that seems very well suited for my project. However, I will have to wire necessary wires to a slip ring to make this work with continuous rotation.
For that reason I need to determine how many of these 24...
ScottyUK:
Yes, I did see that one, it looks like that guy is maybe casting them from urethane? My concern there is two things, and they're kind of the same: 1. Usually they have a little metal insert to help manage torque- none seen in that example. 2. As this is a spring timer, it will...
Hmm... yeah, funny I hadn't considered that option. I could actually do that here I guess. I guess I just don't the factory knobs very much, haha. Also, still on the lookout for quick & easy. To that end, I might just counterbore a big 1-1/2" diameter with a forstner bit. Finding a good knob...
...with an extended "socket"? (more like a stove burner knob) I've already tried the usual mouser, mcmaster, digikey, etc. with no luck. Hoping for a less known "knobs-r-us.com" kinda resource. Thanks!
**I thought hard about where to post this one and ended up here. Mods please feel free to move.
I've used that trick (with paint though) when I need a super thin insulator, but in this case the motivation is just to have something structural to help secure the plastic flanges.
dgallup:
Thanks! So plastic- that's easy enough, although for your production I'd guess cost is a bigger motivator. My motivation on the prototype would be to have very small and thin flanges, and that works a bit counter toward using plastic as opposed to something that will stay in place...
I have FEMM now but only just getting familiar. Its a handy tool but I won't learn it overnight.
EdStainless- Thanks! That type of general tip is just what I'm looking for. Dgallup: I can vary the power quite a bit, at least on the prototype. Anywhere from 2-30v dc is pretty easy to manage...
It is a LOT of turns, I don't know exactly as it would take me all day to count (I wound it with a power drill). I can estimate based on wire diameter and core dimensions. If I destroy one then maybe I could manage to unwind and measure length but the wire is so thin it will take a lot of...
I've recently built a very small electromagnet the size of a pencil eraser. It works, but I would like to improve it. It is not a high precision application- right now I'm just shooting for "better". I already understand that I can use more turns of a thinner wire to yield a coil which operates...