Regarding locating a girder parallel with the wall above. That was the initial layout, however we only have about 3' of total depth for the girder, and it doesn't work for the required span. Hindsight I probably should have pushed for a steel beam, but it's too late for that.
Wayne, I do like...
Wayne,
Indeed the 6X6 is there just to provide the meat, as a least tolerance-sensitive way to attach all the dowels.
I'm struggling to visualize what you mean by wood screws to truss top chord (?)
Feel free to run me out of town for this one, but here is the latest iteration. I believe this covers the shear transfer ( the chords are resolved separately on ea end of the wall. ) Any glaring issues (other than the obtuse use of the 6X6)
I'm trying to resolve a wonky diaphragm on a truss with a ~2'-0" vertical step.
The diaphragm can be loaded in both directions. Exterior sheathing is 19/32, interior will be (2)layers of 3/4.
We're obviously loosing the benefit of stagger lapping at least in one direction, but conservatively...
I have a series of wood trusses terminating on the interior of the building which have some very tall heels (13'+)
There is no shear transfer by design here - although some might occur in reality.
I'm leaning towards sheathing this section full height, but am wondering if that might be overkill...
@Choras - this is not about LTB, but rather direct torsion on a beam loaded on a single side only. A couple is needed somewhere to resolve, which with top flange hangers can only occur at the supports - i.e. the skinny shear tab which are good for nothing. With packed out beam and a gap, you'd...
@Choras,
In case of a simple hanging top-flange-bucket (same as shown), floor sheathing wouldn't really provide any torsional restraint.
With a face nailer, you end up relying on nail withdrawal to resolve your couple, which would likely not be sufficient for many pre-engineered buckets.
I'm sure many of you who work in residential see this type of connection often.
The other variation is where the web is packed out with 2x and the joist/floor truss bucket is attached to it.
My question: When trusses come in to one side only, the torsion can get pretty high, especially on...
@Celt: I don't have an issue detailing the parapet - the diaphragm connection is the tricky part. After digesting this thread, I'm thinking about going for sheathed-in diagonal bracing, similar to the attached detail.
@Eng16080 - Good catch on the 5" spacing, an embarrassment on my part. I'm gonna sleep on the wood frame parapet idea. Do you notch your roof diaphragm around the parapet extensions (when sistered to trusses)? The carpenters/roofers here are just a step up from unskilled laborers, so I'd be...
Regarding the nailing of the plies... I initially agreed with the commentary here, but then started scratching my head. If we were to add in another set of bolts to secure the plies together, it would in theory accomplish the same thing as nailing (while bolting the first ply directly to the...
I'm curious why you all are against mixing concrete and CMU. This is very commonly done in my area, and I don't know of a single issue with this type of construction that has cropped up over the last ~15 years.
The other end of the truss will have the exact same detail. I disagree on the...
I've got a condition where I have to terminate flat roof wood trusses into a face of a parapeting (can I say that?) wall.
The bonus here is that the roof slopes, so in order to keep the sheathing flush with the top chords, I'm showing the trusses installed on an incline.
I've been mulling over...
Harbringer - I really like the concept, but with the posts being discretely located, I don't have much faith that the contractor will place these anchors accurately.
Per attached section - I've got a post that's bearing down with the edge flush with a cold joint between existing and add-on footing. All of Simpsons post bases call for a minimum of 2" of clearance, and I don't think they would extend their warranty in the given situation. To make matters...