Demolishing large cast iron.
Demolishing large cast iron.
(OP)
We have an old vertical boring mill that we are scrapping. I need reccommendations on the best methods to ruduced its castings to managable sizes. It will not cut with a oxy acetylene torch. Much of the castings are 1.5 inches or thicker.





RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
These were used extensively after the 9-11 disasters to sever or remove large sections of material. Wear lot's of protective clothing, it gets very hot and there's lot's of flying debris. We used them at the foundry I used to work for when molds didn't behave or equipment spilled molten metal.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Carbon arc will cut,but it is slow. You can use a Oxy Fuel
torch if you place a piece of carbon steel over the cast and cut thru them both. It acts as a flux. Years ago they actually made a flux torch for cutting cast. Don't know if you can still get one.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
People used to pay $$ to watch 2 old steam locomotives crash head-on into each other. On at least one occasion some people were hurt/killed because they stood too close, and the boiler explosions got 'em. But you ain't got no boiler. <g>
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
I'm still wondering about that wrecking ball - although it would be fun to watch(?) Sounds like that came right off of Wile E. Coyote's drawing board...
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Regarding the lance, how do you heat the end? Won't it use a huge amount of oxygen? In general, how does it work?
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Is it not possible to dispose off the machine without breaking,it might fetch a better value. In India everything is recycled or reused,there is no scrap created. It is our culture to use equipments, however obsolete,perhaps another way of life.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Also, in our scrap center "burn shed" (guess why we call it that), we use an oxygen lance system that feeds "scarfing powder" to the torch tip. Very dazzling at dusk or dawn. We cut solid bars and bundles of stainless, tool steel, etc., up to around 15" in diameter to make a more manageable scrap charge in the arc furnace. I'm sure this system would be impractical for your one-time job, but I figured I'd let the community know about some lancing/scarfing capabilities.
Both systems rely on heating the metal (lance pipe or powder) to it's melting point, and then adding O2 to essentially start a molten metal fire, which pumps out enough heat to melt through whatever you're cutting.
In any case, both methods produce a LOT of heavy smoke, sparks, and some molten metal spray, which is directed away from the "burner" by large fans. In our burn shed, the burner also wears a helmet with a powered HEPA filtration system.
I agree with CWIC, that renting the system would probably be the most cost effective way to go.
And as long as we're having fun, and if you don't want to go with a lance, why not chill it down with some liquid N2, so it gets nice and brittle, and then just hit it with a big hammer? Or an ACME wrecking ball.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
It in our culture to find an easy way out...
Metalguy:
Leave Warner Bros alone...
rd400guy:
Enjoy 2-stroke Yamaha crotch rockets?
draymorris:
You have received some good ideas in your thread, I particularly like the idea of calling out someone to take the whole thing away by a scrapper (no fisticuffs)...
Please let the forum know what you guys decide upon and how effective the process was so we can have some closure...
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Since its probably cast iron, its already brittle at room temp.
Also, forget the wrecking ball/forklift idea. That's working way too close.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Have a valve at the end of the torch.
Have a cut off valve at the regulator.
Light it as stated above.
You have some control on the burn rate with the valve at the operator end of the lance.
The lance should go out when the O2 is cut off. We always had a bucket of water on standby.
Never allow the hose to get hot.
Never allow the hose to wrap around anything especially the operator.
Keep people away from the blowing end.
The O2 consumption isn't that high
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
I am in the sticks - 100 miles west of Fort Worth, 45 miles East of Abilene. All the scrap yards that I have spoke to thus far have said that the steel isn't worth the trip. Especially when you add the expense of the forklift and rigger to load and unload it. It weighs about 17K lbs., and is about 8 ft by 10ft base 11ft tall. It is made of castings that are mostly hollow from .75 to 2 inches thick. Just dis-assembly of the 4 pcs that make up this frame is going to be tough. That is why I thought I would cut it into to pcs from the top down.
Tomarrow I am going to try an arc gouger just to see how fast it cuts. We do have cheap labor, so time is not that important(in a way).
I will let you know what happens.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
1.1/4" carbon
2.400 to 500 amps You will need a good high duty cycle machine.
3.Make sure your air holes are on the bottom of the carbon.
4.Max. carbon stick out of about 4"s.
5.Use shop air about 80-120 psi.
Old inner tubes make good shoe covers. An old piece of fire hose makes a good cover for the air and electric hook up.
Make sure you us a "scarfing" action as you cut.
Use ear protection and have good venting. Leathers
Beats grinding.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Drilling - drills easy, but at best, this is as slow as arc gouging. Futhermore, the stuff is tough! It doesn't like to crack. I was told this machine was made in 1917 - I wish the casting would have been made like some I have seen today! A ten pound hammer with my 230lbs on the end of it barely chips it when hit just right.
Cutting with a peice of steel over the top - not sure about details of making this work. But my experience with torch cutting 2 pcs of metal tell me that they can have no contamination in between them, they must be very close together(no gap), and you must go very slow - and that is with 2 pcs of carbon steel. Cutting this did not work, maybe for one or all of the above reasons. Any further advice on this?
The wrecking ball is out! I turned the forklift over and barely dented the machine. The hole in the side of the building was able to be covered with one sheet of tin and a few hours of work. The acid from the fork lift battery seem to be eating the concrete, so maybe the machine will just fall through the floor and keep going.
I am joking, I did not try the wrecking ball - YET.
Dynamite - Sorry we are not that far out in the boonies. But the thought has crossed my mind (many times).
The O2 lance - I am thinking of trying this but would like some more details. Does it just stay "lit" after you get it red hot and blow oxygen? Does it consume the pipe? More info please.
Ofter I try the o2 lance - I may hire a dozer instead of a rigger - dig a hole and drag it in! May be cheaper anyway. The main purpose is to get it out of the Machine shop and out of sight.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Or try the carbon steel method. One way is to lay a piece of 3/16" plate over the area and cut thru both. It only needs to lay fairly flat as you don"t care what the results are. The other way is to use the method first listed and feed some small diameter rod stock into your cut with your free hand. I have had good luck with this one.
The O2 lance,yes it will stay lit. Remember to heat a spot of your base metal and the end of the pipe white hot before you turn on the O2. It does consume the pipe. 1/4" would prob. be ok. BE CAREFUL this is dangerous.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Once you try the lances you'll wish you went that route to begin with.
The lances are "hot" as long as the tip is red hot. As noted previously it WILL make quick work of that chunk of iron. They are easy to use and it dosen't take much practice to effectively cut, pierce or gouge. I still caution you on the flying debris because the lance will really break down the cast iron quickly and all that molten material has to go somewhere.
You might be able to coax the local welding rep. to stop in and do a "demo" for you on your equipment with their LOC equipment.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
I found a scrap hard close enough to haul the large peices to. They said if thier 800 ton shear won't shear it, they will find a way to demolish it and buy it anyway.
Sorry, I know everyone was wanting to hear of some crazy stories of fires and expolosions, but I think I will take the safe and easy way out. I may try the oxygen lance someday, just to play around.
Thanks for all your help.
Danny
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Thanks for the update!
unclesyd
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
OR: Explosives!!!
nick
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
here is what i would have done
dug a big hole, put said machine in hole and covered machine.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
Good Luck
Hey RD I had one too the 400
RE: Demolishing large cast iron.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Corrosion never sleeps, but it can be managed.
http://www.trenttube.com/Trent/tech_form.htm