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Paved ditch

Paved ditch

Paved ditch

(OP)
I have several hundred feet of paved ditch to install, and would like to benefit from the experiences of those who have installed paved deitches.  The ditch bottoms range for 2 to 10 meters in width, and the sides slope are 3,4, and 10 to 1, no transitions are necessary.  The slab thickness is 150 mm.  Is it better to form the bottoms seperate from the sides, or all together.  Is there a need for keyways.  Would you use a BidWell or vibaratory screed.

RE: Paved ditch

Are you designing the paving or are you constructing it ?
In my experience, the contractor would choose a construction method based on the available equipment.

Is leakage into the subsoils a problem ?  Are they clayey or sandy ?  What is the natural water table level ?  If leakage into or out of the ditches may be a problem, then the fewer joints the better.

Is your lining reinforced with steel bars ?  The installation and lapping of these bars will affect joint layout and construction procedures.

A vibratory screed can work on sloped concrete at angles of up to 2 (horiz) to 1 (vertical) if the mix is correctly designed and placed, and the equipment guiding the screed is sufficiently stable.

RE: Paved ditch

Is the concrete reinforced or not.If some leakage not a problem and if also not reinforced I would cast the slab then the sloping sides separate.

Same assumptions as above I would use a vibrating screed for the slab and a formwork system for the sloping sides. The sloping formwork will need a holding down system to the slab, but this can be achieved fairly easily.

Zambo

RE: Paved ditch

Several hundred feet can go pretty fast even with hand finishing - here, of course, I'm talking about a bull float not really hand finishing.  Human labor vs a bidwell made for flat bottom ditches (FBD).

Most FBD have some type of wire mesh for crack control.

It basically comes down to what RiBenke says - use whats available.  If you have a bidwell available for this type of application then use it, otherwise put labor to work.  With the manpower approach you'll have to pour the bottom first and come back to finish out the sides.  The 10:1 may be pretty difficult to do by hand.  Its a pretty long side.

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