Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
(OP)
Attached is what we are dealing with. Have had a little debate as to the best connection for this situation and I thought Id ask the pros!
This is a 3 story wood deck in a fairly high wind area (no seismic). The deck is 10' wide by 40' long and is attached to the structure with a ledger board. I know there are a few options but here is the criteria:
strength
ease of construction
most economical
Thoughts?
This is a 3 story wood deck in a fairly high wind area (no seismic). The deck is 10' wide by 40' long and is attached to the structure with a ledger board. I know there are a few options but here is the criteria:
strength
ease of construction
most economical
Thoughts?






RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Might be able to get away with toenails and an LSTA24 strap. I don't know how much money or time i would be trying to save on a deck of this scale and potential liability.
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Dik
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Are you stopping (interrupting) the vertical 6x6 at the joint with the 2x horizontal LVL beams and the 1x 2x12 horizontal beams?
Would it not be better to continue the 6x6 all the way up, and connect the horizontal beams to the continuous vertical member with Simpson galvanized steel ties? (Or the equal product.)
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
If it's not wrapped, you'd have to consider the bracing of the deck. If it's adequately braced by the main structure so, as as XR250 mentioned, there is no lateral shear, you could design a pinned base - maybe drill into the posts and drop a stainless steel drift pin in, or use a concealed post base with modified loads based on your substrate connection. If the 40' dimension is against the wall, I would imagine it's pretty well braced. Just make sure you pay close attention to the detailing at the attachment and load path into the house diaphragm.
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Your multi-ply LVL should be fastened (and possibly glued) along its length. Have you considered a partial depth bearing ledge supplemented by bolts? Design the bearing ledge to handle the full reaction, and then use the bolts to counter the bearing eccentricity and act as insurance (design them full the full gravity load, too). Or, like I said, use an offset or concealed flange hanger for the beams on the side of a continuous post - that may be harder to get in stainless, though.
I have the exact same condition with a multistory apartment with balconies a block from the beach. I intend to use the splice detail I linked to above at mid height between floors, and the post cap at the roof level.
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
For a 3-story deck I would automatically just do 6x6 HSS steel columns.
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
LVL's (even if wrapped) are vulnerable to deterioration in damp conditions like this and I would not be happy with that material in this application.
Simpson concealed flange hangers for posts are good for this.
Thinking of lateral stability - Seems like the 4:1 aspect ratio of the deck is very favorable for lateral stability, provided that horizontal anchorage can be provided by the connection at the building.
I like PT PSL or Glu-lam posts (Anthony Forest Products makes a nice PT Glu-lam post).
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
BA
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
RE: Best Connection: Post/Beam/Post
Dik