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Roof Framing Question
2

Roof Framing Question

RE: Roof Framing Question

Can the existing house wall take the additional load?

how far between the corners of the rectangle at it's furthest point?

I would try to just place roof joists across the gap on the angle, and then you can stick frame a valley set to create whatever roof peak you want.

RE: Roof Framing Question

Is the roof flat?
What is the span and spacing of the trusses?
What is the shape of the exterior wall in the space to be filled?

BA

RE: Roof Framing Question

(OP)
I just met with the owner today to see what he wanted to do so I don't know a lot of the details yet. I do not know the existing truss spacing but the addition will be 24" o.c. The existing wall is a wood stud wall so it should have no trouble handling the additional load.

The exterior wall shape will be as shown on the attached drawing. The truss span will be 32' (16' each side).

RE: Roof Framing Question

If you can get the ridge, usually it's economical to just stick frame the rest.

Slight modification to my sketch: make the LVL perpendicular to the uppermost girder rather than the knuckle girder. The knuckle girder can rest on the LVL in bearing with an upset vertical plated on to the end of it. That way, you won't have any odd angle truss to truss hanger connections.



I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.

RE: Roof Framing Question

(OP)
Does the last existing truss need to be replaced with a girder truss as well? There is the existing wood stud wall under the last truss so if the truss was removed the wall could be built up to support the stick framing.

RE: Roof Framing Question

Quote (jim)

Does the last existing truss need to be replaced with a girder truss as well? There is the existing wood stud wall under the last truss so if the truss was removed the wall could be built up to support the stick framing.

I imagine that your last existing truss is a gable end truss that supported all of the way by a stud wall below. You may be able to just attach to that truss and be done with it as far as the over build goes. Usually those gable end trusses have vertical at 48" that you could fasten a ledger to. I was imagining that you'd need to cut a notch in the gable end truss to run the LVL through and install a stud pack below it.

If you're planning to connect the two diaphragms together for lateral, reconstructing the existing gable end might make sense anyhow just from that perspective.

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.

RE: Roof Framing Question

What a great document medeek. There's an event better explanation on page 43.

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.

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