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roadbed stabilization

roadbed stabilization

I am a mech engineer, building a home with 1500 ft lane in from the blacktop over mostly sandy but also clay and silty soil. I have an area on the lane that is soft and spongy and allows the dump truck to sink down and make big ruts. I had already planned to use some Propex separation fabric(200ST) but certain areas are so bad I can stand on them and they act list a tarp laying on water-- almost! Digging down I find clay on top covering a deposit of saturated and mushy sand. I can dig down with my bare hand and remove huge handfulls of the wet snotty sand with little effort, and deeply. There is about 100 yards of lane with this problem. Please offer ideas for remediation. thanks!

RE: roadbed stabilization

If you do use some sort of reinforcing layer upon which you place a typical base course,be sure to check out the stresses imposed on that reinforcement. Once you over-stress it, it is too late. I'd make use of an experienced geotech engineer who has worked with reinforcing the roadway and who can design the thickness of base course needed to carry given axle loads. That advice takes much more input and work than might be tried here by well intended members. In any case never go whole hog with one design without representative trial areas that prove the worth.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Spread a layer of graded aggregate (gravel, recycled concrete, asphalt tailings, etc) about 4 inches thick. Mix it in with the existing material. You'll see a marked improvement in the stability. If not stable enough, add a few bags of portland cement and mix in. Spread the cement over the area to a depth of about 1/4" and mix in 6" deep. Compact all with compactor if you can get, heavy vehicle if not.

RE: roadbed stabilization

thanks for the input guys.
Oldestguy: It might be too late in this one area(overstressed?), smaller about 3 x 10ft . . . however, it is representative of much of the 100 yards where I cut this lane out of the side of a hill(very low grade). I believe I harmed (stressed?) the underlay by cutting out the topsoil-- not sure?? Anyway, based on what I hear I will use this as a test case as you suggest and dig out the muck, fill with broken concrete (which I have available in the gravel pit next door), fill further with class 5 and asphalt tailings.

Ron: thanks Ron. I will try a mix of your and oldest guy's suggestions on this test area and relate how it goes. 100 yards is a big area to be dumping bags of Portland, as you suggest, I will wait till last on that one!

I am surprised that NEITHER of you had any suggestions for stabilization or separation fabric as that seems to be "popular" with some builders in this area and norther Minnesota. Is that mostly because you have never used it and are not familiar with it? It's about $350 to $600/ 300 ft roll depending on what you get-- Propex is the company name.

Location: Sherburne County Minn, near Big Lake & Elk River, on acreage on the Elk River, edge of glacier tailings, esker nearby, mucky black / sandy soil in hay field very near.

I will try not to lose my track loader in this pot of muck!

RE: roadbed stabilization

schreibs - See the link below for guidelines to build a forestry road using geotextile fabric. This is likely comparable to a residential access road. Note that the document recommends gravel or base course at least one foot thick on top of the fabric. We built several short roads in conditions as soft as you have described at electric generating stations in coastal South Carolina - take the one foot thick material on the fabric seriously. Put traffic on the road, add gravel or base course as dips or depressions appear - don't just regrade the existing material. If you plan to pave the road, wait at least one year before doing so. Natural compaction is your friend.

Geotextile For Forestry Road Construction idea r2d2

RE: roadbed stabilization

SlideRuls's reference is good. Note that the width of the fabric is as important as the length. 3 ft. seems just far too narrow. There are oddles of fabric types and uses out there. My preference would be high strength woven, since it has little stretch before being useful. However, sufficient thickness of base type cover is needed to avoid overstressing it. Preferably I'd want some strength tests (such as CBR) or good estimates on the subgrade before doing any undercut and replacement. Also, some replacement materials must be considered as not totally useful if the voids then become filled with frost susceptible material (as your area must consider). Broken concrete falls into this category. My stabilization experience is in northern states, mostly Wisconsin, including highways and regular area pavements, some of which involved fabric. On that score, I've seen many a fabric job fail and so I'd envision that your roadway probably is not a good place for successful usage, doe to width and length restrictions. I'd go more for undercut and replacement with something other than what you have used. In doing this I usually experiment with a tapered thickness of undercut and replacement test on representative area so as to find the working thickness that then can be applied to the whole site.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Forgot one thing. This undercut and replacement is for improving the subgrade. There still is needed a base course on top of that for the run-of-th-mill areas, generally kept the same over the improved areas.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Before you start digging, is it a designated wetland that will require a permit first?

RE: roadbed stabilization

OK folks here is what I did:
-- used my track loader to open up a sample area and removed soil as deep as the loader allowed-- about 18 to 24", but not uniformly.
-- re-filled partially with sand
-- placed broken concrete pieces like jigsaw puzzle and covered with sand
-- smoothed, added class 5 on top, final smoothed.
-- filled bucket with class 5 and ran track loader back and forth for some compaction.
RESULTS: most areas appeared to have increased support and stabilization; areas that I missed showed stress cracking. This method most closely resembles what oldest guy suggested as "undercut and replacement". See attached photos. Last one shows stress cracking on surface after job "complete", before second attempt at removal and refill. I tried to upload three and it looks like max is one photo?!
Two things of note: 1) for a home lane and 100 yards by 12 ft following this route seems like a pretty big deal; 2) new information: in recent weeks the gravel pit started pumping and dumping their water in ponds on north side of my property, higher in elevation than this lower hay field which abuts the Elk River. Recently they stopped pumping and are supposedly finished. However, the ponded areas remain and, I believe, are serving as high head(20 ft) hydraulic reservoirs for the lower water table in the swale of the hay field adjacent to my lane. If so, it seems reasonable that until the water table drops, it won't matter WHAT I do up above the sub-grade because it will ALL be just floating on this bed of fluidized material. What say you?!

I'm wondering if I waited a few months until the water table pressure is relieved maybe the problem will be relieved. The farmer who cuts my hay has never seen the water standing in the field like it is now.

I have put the fabric on back burner mainly due to the cost being excessive due to 12" min aggregate. . .

Finally, I'm considering Ron's advice in a new sample area(mix and compact) to see if that can be as effective as the concrete. However, I am hesitant due to the sub-grade being so deficient, so deep, that I would expect a continuous slab of concrete to float back and forth. Really, simply standing, I can rock my weight back and forth and watch a wave between my feet!

RE: roadbed stabilization

Where I am, the fabric is the common cure. That said, it has been used in the area for almost 40 years and there is a lot of experience, especially bad experience. There are many things I recommend which are somewhat contrary to the supplier recommendations. Actually, I think I have come close to driving the Tensar & Mirafi engineers a little mad.

The test sections is very good advice or find a couple of local engineers who have a lot of experience with what does & does not work for your conditions.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Schreibs: Sounds like progress to me. However, your use of the term "floating" probably is not technically correct. What I think you have is a deep deposit of silt or very silty sand, or silty clay. These gradations tend to not drain water easily and, when disturbed the pore pressure (water in the pores)goes a little above the gravitational effect of saturated water filled voids, causing a weakening of the temporary shear strength of the soil. Commonly you can make one pass over the area with the vehicle and no problem. Make repeated passes and the subgrade zone appears to be rubbery and weak, like a mattress. I have had contractors call and ask me how to stop this action. I tell them to take their front end loader off the area. They then say how did I know that the used that? Well, it is so common I am really surprised when experienced contractors don't know what is going on. The cures for the problem probably are not related to the nearby gravel operations and the ponds, other than to provide plenty of ground water.

The remove and replace is one option to spread the traffic loads down through the new fill to the sensitive lower stuff. Use of fabric is also OK, but designed, not just thrown in and hope it works. Stabilizing the sensitive stuff also works, but again needs some design, as with test areas. Mixing in lime, such as quick lime works, but not just a thin layer. Cement mixed in works, but not a thin layer. This stabilized layer has to function to spread the load, as the replacement fill does. However, being that there is some "beam strength" a thinner layer of stabilized soil is possible. I'd guess a foot of stabilization is not sufficient. The percentage to use should be selected from recommendations of lime or cement institute studies, if possible. You can mix with your loader, but a grader is better. Best is a rototiller.

If there is a ready mix plant nearby that may have a lot of old cement, a deal might work out.

Check out this paper.

RE: roadbed stabilization

One em about lime stabilization. The principle of this method is to change expansible clay minerals to less plastic material. So, clay content is important. That is why even lab trial mixes may be needed to be sure lime will do any benefit. Portland Cement, on the other hand, is a form of glue, not dependent on what it is mixed with for strength.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Interesting pointers about both cement and lime. thanks, I will read up on the lime manual. The problem I see immediately with the lime, and less so with the cement, is that it will be hard to 1) find the mix ratio that works and the depth to treat, and 2) to be able to do any mixing of these materials with my only equipment being a track loader-- not a big articulated front end loader. There is no easy and cheap answer -- not that I was expecting one. I just have to find one that is reasonable for a simple farm road fix!

Tomorrow I have a civil engineer / sales rep from Tensor stopping by! (thanks for the pointer emmgjld) His fix will likely include product sales of course not to mention class 5 over the stabilization fabric.

RE: roadbed stabilization

for non-commercial, best approach is fix at least the upper 3-5 feet...3' probably sufficient for application you mention. if soft down below, then mix in cement at perhaps 3-5% depending on gradation of material...sandy would be lower and clayey/silty higher...this will stabilize (not soil-cement) most soft soils and aids in drying back while "gluing" it. at about $10/ea, you can get the 80-90lbs bags of cement (not concrete). I would suggest fixing the upper 1' as you did everywhere else so you don't have a hard patch up top performing different than rest...leads to more cracking. can use biaxial grid like a BX11/SBX11 (Tensar/Syntec) as more cost effective than TX for this application...then construct compacted base over this. if unstable at subgrade, grid will help but likely not completely fix so target a sufficiently compacted subgrade. often, simply scarifying and allowing the material to dry back then replace as properly compacted fill does the trick depending on location and time you have to allow to dry. remember good fill placement other words, don't scarify 2' then try to compact the top as this will not properly compact the full layer.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Schreibs: Before I'd do any full scale "fix up", and to help us here, it would be helpful to know a few things. What kind of traffic, loads and frequency? What are the soil strength numbers? Any freezing weather there?

As to getting the info like we use, that may be difficult. But for a rough test, how deep can you shove a 1/2" rod with average body push? How easy was it? How far in can you shove your thumb? All this before any disturbance by vehicles on it at least for over night.

The Tensar grids are strong stuff and it may be over kill.

With regard to Msucog's recommendation "for non-commercial, best approach is fix at least the upper 3-5 feet...3' probably sufficient", I'd say major over -kill.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Thanks for joining in the fray msucog. It appears you offer 3 potential remediations. The first being a high end, deep, fix with the last (turn it over, let it dry, compact in lifts) being the one I may consider. I can appreciate what you're saying on the deep fix, but adding 3% cement to 100 yards x 12 ft x one yard deep seems a bit beyond what my resources can address. The one foot deep fix(imitating my initial work) is not attainable either as it would deplete my resource for broken concrete in the next 20 ft of roadbed. That was a trial I used to see if I could make "something" work with what I had available . . . not an overall fix for the full 100 yards. If I understand your thinking is that the grid will work, so to speak, to allow traffic but it is not fixing the subgrade. Your final suggestion for simply uprooting the subgrade and letting it air dry is somewhat reasonable to do-- but not at this time. I have to have use of this road for the time being and winter is coming soon. Besides the gravel pit owners pumped in reservoir, standing in the upper part of my land, I am convinced, is feeding the water table below to keep the area around the roadbed wet. Until that drys out and the water table is back to "normal" I cannot tell. It's not worth drying and re-compacting the existing soil materials just to have the water table mess them all up again. I will provide details for what the Regional Manager / PE Civil engineer recommended. ..

RE: roadbed stabilization

Quote (schreibs)

in recent weeks the gravel pit started pumping and dumping their water in ponds on north side of my property, higher in elevation than this lower hay field which abuts the Elk River. Recently they stopped pumping and are supposedly finished. However, the ponded areas remain and, I believe, are serving as high head(20 ft) hydraulic reservoirs for the lower water table in the swale of the hay field adjacent to my lane. If so, it seems reasonable that until the water table drops, it won't matter WHAT I do up above the sub-grade because it will ALL be just floating on this bed of fluidized material. What say you?!

suggest you also investigate and mitigate the water problem as well. it sounds like there is poor drainage. it could be from the gravel pit or it could be from rain or both. Improving drainage may require some fill and a culvert to handle surface runoff or perhaps some sort of hydraulic barrier / cutoff wall or subdrain to handle groundwater

RE: roadbed stabilization

OK Oldestguy, here are some more details: I expect only 5 to 10 heavy trucks to pass across this roadbed in the next six months, mostly my little Isuzu Rodeo 4x4. When home building starts next spring there is the well drillers truck, cement truck loads, and home building truck supplies over this road. After the home is built I plan to final TUNE the road and use only my vehicles across it, say October next year. My plan is to get the road to about 70% "good" and do the final 30% once the home is near complete. It does not make sense to make it "perfect" just to have the cement trucks rut it all up. Cement truck weighs up to 65,000# I understand, but that does not mean I can't pay more and limit their loads to half, still they could be 40 or 50,000 #. The well driller, not sure, but guessing 30,000# max. The point is these are all nearly "one time" events. . .

It is hard to answer your question that appears to be asking for something that can be related to CBR without taking a half inch rod and trying it. Maybe I will do that, but here is what the Tensar Engineer and I concluded:
-- without using an penetrometer and just walking on it, some of the worse areas appear to be on the order of 1.5 CBR
-- two remediation suggestions based on my readily available sand and his product fixes:
1) crown subgrade materials down roadbed, use triangle grid TX160 under 9” of class 5 aggregate, compact each 3 to 4” lift of the build if possible.
— 2) use a woven textile fabric first after crowning, place 3 to 4” lift of sand, wet, smooth, contour, and compact if possible, place TX160, use 5 to 6” of class 5 aggregate.

1) was his first recommendation and 2) was suggested as a way to “utilize” my own readily available sand resource and minimize amount of class 5 to buy. However, it requires two "fabrics". I have to analyze the costs to see if it is actually cheaper.

Whatever I do I will do a test area first. . . I am hoping I can convince the local Brock White dealer to let me buy short sections of grid / fabric for my experiment!

RE: roadbed stabilization

Here is a link to my dropbox that shows the photos of my first subgrade re-work, hopefully "Dropbox" routing will work.

It is very cumbersome to place images on this forum I see, and my earlier attempt allowed only one to be placed at a time.
Going to Dropbox you can access the whole folder:

RE: roadbed stabilization

Your traffic is a very low count of meaningful loads.. Repeated loads within short time intervals would be the main concern, with the heaviest being the worst effect. Later on, very light traffic and thus less need to get too elaborate now.. Asphaltic concrete paving with some base course later on a reasonable stable road will help significantly, but I like to see that subgrade not yielding to to more than a one inch rut remaining from a truck pass.

The 1/2 inch rod test is mentioned because around here in Wisconsin we use that a lot to check for low compaction of fill, or the need for improvement. A full shove by one hand to 2 feet is real bad. I'd have to guess you might get one foot. Not the worst, but would explain your situation better, not requiring the deep fix some recommend..

An estimate of CBR at 1.5 means ulta weak. The lowest I've ever designed for is 3 and that is mainly because of weak subgrade expected after thawing of silt soil that gained lots of water in frost lenses. The "design" by the sales person with reinforced by fabric seems light, but that is where a few test runs will tell what works. If it fails early on, I don't suppose there is any "guarantee".
Again taper the test run upper layer thicknesses. The test needs one of those loaded trucks, because that is the truck you want to support. A car or tractor not likely to mean much. The most useful layers are those on top of the fabric, spreading out the load on the fabric.

Those gradation numbers don't mean much to this OG, but any granular material may work with the proposed design. I don't quite see the need to crown the subgrade, other than removing ruts and humps. Surface crown later helps drain surface water. Too much crown and snow plowing will change that.

Your link shows a lot of the situation. Spot fixes with the broken concrete seems pretty deep, but a heck of a lot of work per foot of roadway. I assume you tried to vary the thickness of treatment. I'd estimate the concrete helps some, but not a significant difference from well graded sand and gravel. If broken up so no largest chunks were about 6 inches and well graded, maybe better yet.

The link works good, but try the "upload image" from the group up above for multiple shots.

RE: roadbed stabilization

OG here. I Goggled Minn DOT specs and see the class 5 aggregate is similar to what is used in Wisconsin, but I think you need to avoid recycle concrete. The reason is that does not specify much of any binder sizes. Using it for a roadway surface is likely to have much raveling with traffic passes. Otherwise it is a good gradation, well graded meaning sizes work together to make a dense result, strong in shear strength.

RE: roadbed stabilization

OK, I will get a half inch rod and profile the road. Graph forthcoming next time I visit. . .

Keep in mind the 1.5 CBR "rating" reflects only a seat-of-the-pants rating for the worst places on the road, mostly showing up where vehicles wheel travel and in the lowest area near the hayfields low spot. Much (70%?)of the concerning part of the roadbed(farm lane) is better than that by far, no sinking at all under human traffic, hard. The overall farm lane is about 1/4 mile long with only about 100 yards of concern due to likely high water table causing this localized low, apparent CBR.

In the meantime I plan to get a short piece (about 40 ft) of Propex 200ST and apply it thusly: over the "as is" subgrade of silty, wet sand at 20" depth, mixed topsoil and clay above that to the surface, I will spread 2 to 3" of sand from my pit, <<< all this exists already. . . then place the 200ST fabric, then two thicknesses of class 5 aggregate(2" over first 20 ft(A) and (B) 5" for the other 20 ft). Then, I will just start using the road and invite my neighbor to drive his single axle truck over it(no load) a few times. Depending on the response from A and B cross sections I may dump some more sand in his truck to increase load, or just STOP!

Experiment to follow.

RE: roadbed stabilization

If I gather this right, on top of the fabric you will only use 2" of Class 5 and in another area 5". I envision the use of fabric normally is to have it at the bottom of a thick layer of aggregation. The purpose is to reduce the thickness of gravel that otherwise would be needed to pas over the weak subgrade. This is sort of like say you have a muddy area in your yard path to the garden and you then spread enough gravel to spread out your foot print so it doesn't sink in in a small area, but instead a larger fear, going in less, due to less shearing of the mud. In your case now suppose instead of that gravel you lay down a sheet of canvas instead of the thicker gravel. You probably won't sink in as far, but still plenty. Add a few inches of gravel on the canvas and it helps, but not much.

So for a very weak subgrade, you might need 18 inches of gravel to drive over it. Instead, you have that fabric at or near the bottom and then carry the same traffic, but maybe with 10 inches.

I liken this to reinforcing concrete to carry a load as a beam. For a reinforced concrete beam the steel is needed near the bottom . Put that steel near the top instead, it then has minimal benefit. So a thin layer of gravel on the fabric is pretty much not going to do noticeable good.

For typical highway use of fabric in the bottom of the base course, and for say a CBR of 3, one may need 18 inches of base, instead of 24" without fabric, depending oon the strength of the fabric. I have seen many a failed use of fabric where the covering with base course is too thin.

For your test, I'd start with 6" at one end of the test and end up with 12 or more at the end, a tapered usage. Fabric on the bottom on the subgrade. Test area length probably 10 feet minimum. In a pinch I'd do the test on one wheel path maybe 4 feet wide.

RE: roadbed stabilization

well in addition to adding strength to the subgrade, it also acts as a separation layer preventing the gravel from being pushed into the mud.

RE: roadbed stabilization

CVG: For well graded base course as he is looking at no separation is needed due to the fines filling the voids of the gravel. Fun stuff here.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Thanks guys. I decided to buy the whole dang roll($345, big deal) and go for broke. Based on your input, oldest guy, it appears my A/B test was in the wrong range! Keep in mind my objective was to cause a significant effect, not necessarily to have both sides "work" (i.e. an experiment). Just the same, I will adjust the range upwards. Also, I will try to get you guys the 1/2" rod profile before proceeding if possible.

RE: roadbed stabilization

The rod probes we use are about 30 inches long with a 1" pipe handle welded on top to make "T".

On that neighbor's truck load test be sure it has a full load and remember the ready mix trucks are much heavier yet.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Here is half inch rod data. Process used: pressed on handle with both hands, if road took the weight easily I stopped. Likely, this applied less than 50# force. However, if the rod sank easily I put my whole 155# across the handle and let it drop till it stopped. I had to upload a pdf file-- pasting into the window here compressed all the numbers, unreadable.

So, my big question for oldest guy: How does the 1.5 CBR estimate square with these numbers? and! HOW bad is this?!

RE: roadbed stabilization

On the basis of what you show, it seems that any test area should be between 170 and 210. That would then be a governing treatment elsewhere. Can you say about how wide the road is and about where the north and south checks were in that width? Could it be that former gravel, if any, was less road width to explain the differences from center to test paths. How much traffic took place and time prior to these rod probes to explain any temporary weakening measured? I'd suppose your test paths were in the wheel paths? Your CBR of 1.5 may well be right for worst areas, meaning the Tensar guy's recommendation may well be too light.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Shreibs: A rough idea of how I evaluate conditions using fabric follows. Commonly the legal truck axle load limit is 18,000#" (18kips). That means a set of duals carries 9,000 pounds and likely the air pressure is about 100 psi, sometimes a little lower. That gives an area loaded of 90 square inches, probably on either one tire or duals. I then figure the pressure on the fabric by computing the fabric loaded area using a load spread on an area computed by enlarging the dimensions of the area (9 by 10) by adding the stickiness of cover to these numbers. Thus for a 10 inch layer the fabric loaded area is 19 by 20 or 380 square inches making the pressure there 9000/380 = 24 psi. Once I find a suitable thickness by the tapered test area and compute the max pressure I want on the fabric, that then is used for other axle loadings and a "pavement thickness" design. It may not be precisely right, but gives an idea of how one might do this. So, if you run a test with a lighter axle load and find a cover thickness that just holds and does not rip the fabric, that would then be used for those heavier trucks, which likely won't exceed the 18kip axle load. Hope this helps. Pressure limits on the fabric are assumed to be related to shearing and the tearing of fabric. Complicating this is stretching or even moving the fabric, leaving a hammock situation and a rut. So for a rutting situation I use one inch as maximum rut depth accepted. That may well control if side dimensions off from the traveled path are not much.

RE: roadbed stabilization

additional info you requested: . . . and MORE!
-- virgin land for the most part. No gravel ever saw this road until I dropped some class 5 on top of the concrete pieces last week.
-- the "road" is really just a farm lane that until I bought the property was used only by the farmer who made hay off the grasses and we drove through 3' high grasses on this "lane" when viewing the property first time!
-- the farm lane is variable in width, but approx 10 ft wide. I will HAVE to make it 12.5 ft wide to accept the fabric. The North and South lanes are about 5 ft from the center data, not measured. I just plopped the rod down in the likely track location to within 14" or so.
-- I think the important thing here is to consider if the fabric will be affected enough to fail early when there is SO much variation across the width as these data indicate. I figure the fabric will be severely depressed on one side and be deformed there while the other might hold up OK.
-- the lane lays at the bottom of what I believe is likely a hill of sand, mostly and glacial till at the bottom. The hill probably exists because the original river eroded away the till eons ago and left silt in this narrow river valley up to the river edge 100 yards away. This is backed up by soil borings from my Septic designer and borings from he gravel pit north, and by my observations of the subgrade I unearthed last week, and by geology info found on my property on the net.
-- I get my sand from what really looks like an esker on my land. It is a long, narrow ridge of sand that runs through my land and north of it, north and south.
-- We have not heard much about the potential the (supposed) raised water table may have on this road stability. . . Wondering if I waited a year would it be gone?
-- The Tensar fellow gave me a cute little nomograph he used to calculate the CBR that is able to use seat of the pants criteria OR calculated numbers. We used seat of the pants criteria column to lead us to the 1.5 CBR because we had no CBR measurement tester OR the neat 1/2" rod data! Anyway, it is my belief without trying to analyze his little slide rule / nomograph thing that it takes into account the patch dimensions, pressure, number of passes a truck makes, and it has two sides to it. One side is to get a CBR related to a one inch rut and the other is for 3" ruts.
-- I agree with your conclusion about the location for a test area and will do "something" there. . . !
-- Remember the Tensar guy's recommendation were NOT for fabric originally. He wants me to use his nice, expensive $1660/ roll plastic triangular mesh-- TX160
-- I will run a test patch of Propex Geotex 200ST in the test area and if that fails look to his high buck product.
-- I have a local paving company looking to see if they have any left over Tx160 they could sell me. Brock White(dealer) will only sell full rolls.

RE: roadbed stabilization

It looks to be a job patty well thought out. With fabric there any future excavations, as for buried electric lines or drainage pipe installation will "mess it up". Be aware that if the edges of the fabric become exposed, snow plowing also will do a real job on it. This must be kept in mind when placing the covering gravel also.

RE: roadbed stabilization

Well guys I put in about 20 dump truck loads(7 yd)in all-- much of that over just the basic fabric(not "GEOGRID" plastic) and it appears to pretty much have solved the problem. Of course, time needs to take its course to really prove this out.

I did not use the geogrid materials on this mushy area because it just cost too much(from Tensar). However, on a tough area where vehicles must make a hard turn ON a hill slope the grade was getting beaten up pretty badly and I was able to buy some material from a local paving company that was not even as strong as Tensar's TX140 and placed about 45x 13 ft of that on the turn (two pieces, $120) under some class 5 (clay, sand, gravel mix). I plan to top that with some ground blacktop to prevent erosion.

There is no way to tell the relative worth of the fabric (mushy area) in this test probably but I did leave some areas on that stretch untouched with a plan to use the knowledge gained after some "running" time to determine whether it is worthwhile. Two things appear to be major contributors better road so far: 1) got the road higher off the water table and 2) the total thickness enabled the forces to spread out the effect of weight and shear. Of course, fabric helped to accentuate that effect. I am hopeful the grid material used does help with the shear being generated as big trucks take the turn on the grade. For now, I am a lot smarter for having visiting you folks and have a neat 1/2" road bed tester to boot.

Thanks for everyone's help!

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