Antiseize on lug nuts
Antiseize on lug nuts
(OP)
Any suggestions or opinions would be GREATLY appreciated!!
INTELLIGENT WORK FORUMS
FOR ENGINEERING PROFESSIONALS Come Join Us!Are you an
Engineering professional? Join Eng-Tips Forums!
*Eng-Tips's functionality depends on members receiving e-mail. By joining you are opting in to receive e-mail. Posting GuidelinesJobs |
|
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
Adding anti-seize to any component reduces the amount of torque needed to achieve the required bolt stretch - ergo, you need to reduce the amount of torque.
Also, the problem with using excessive torque on lug nuts and bolts has more to due with double and triple the amount of torque - like using a pneumatic impact gun where it is possible to get those high values. In other words, the concern about over-torquing a lug nut due to the use of anti-seize is real but over-exaggerated - which explains why there is such a debate on the subject.
So I have taken to using anti-seize only on mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub, and avoid the lug nut area altogether. Personally, I think that is where the real problems are. OTOH, I don't live in an area with high salt usage, and I am really careful to hand start all the lug nuts when I rotate tires. - and I occasionally need to chase a thread to get it to go only smoothly by hand.
My advise to others is to do the same - avoid using anti-seize on the lugs nuts and the seats of the nut to the wheel. Hand start every nut. Chase the ones that need it. Be prepared to replace a stud or nut if it binds or gets too worn. Don't use a pneumatic impact gun for final tightening. Hand torque every nut to its final position. (This last one gets some caught out as the nut has to be turning for this to be done correctly) Use a pneumatic impact gun for REMOVAL with its huge torque generation to get the lug nuts loose.
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
I'd also add to Capri's final paragraph that there are recommended patterns to use to tighten the lugs based on the bolt pattern (4, 5, 6, 8 lugs). It's not recommended to tighten one after the other in order. For example, 5 lug is tightened in a semi-star-shaped pattern, 4 lug in a cross-shaped pattern. Unfortunately, my experience is limited to design and testing, not official auto assembly.
Tire Rack recommends the following (and I'd still omit the use of lubricants and anti-sieze compounds): http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107
I also prefer to retorque after the recommended 50-100 miles any time my wheels are removed, including standard servicing (rotate and balance) of my wheels/tires.
Tim Flater
NX Designer
NX 9.0.2.5 Win7 Pro x64 SP1
Intel Xeon 2.53 GHz 6GB RAM
NVIDIA Quadro 4000 2GB
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
If anti-seize reduces the torque requirement, rust will also have the opposite effect. If it is always lubricated the same, the torque requirement will always be the same. If you got rust, the torque requirement will depends on how much rust there is. I choose the lesser of two evils.
As for anti-seize on the lug seat (which I don't see a reason to do it), I would say that it matters for flat seats only because friction would be important to resist wheel torque such that the wheel doesn't turn on the hub. With conical or ball seats, I don't see the importance for that.
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
I have always added a little NeverSeez or equivalent to the stud threads on first reassembly, so that field loosening by ordinary means remains possible. I do not carry an impact wrench in the car for changing tires.
As compensation for the extra lubrication, I will torque wheel nuts to the low end of the stated range.
Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
RE: Antiseize on lug nuts
I have also found that with alloy wheels, properly torqued lug nuts are still apt to loosen slightly in hard driving. Doesn't seem wise to do anything to the lugs or the lug nuts that would reduce friction.
Norm