CO2 Laser Marking
CO2 Laser Marking
(OP)
Company is looking at purchasing a laser marking machine. We deal with stainless steel parts (304,316, etc.). I am getting conflicting information from some laser manufacturers where most state that a metal marking compound is needed and others do not state that. Do I need to really use a metal marking compound with CO2 lasers? Or is that mainly for lower powered ones (say less than 50W) and when getting to the higher powers (100W) it is not needed?
Or would looking at Fiber laser systems be better?
Or would looking at Fiber laser systems be better?





RE: CO2 Laser Marking
"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"
RE: CO2 Laser Marking
Laser marking onto stainless, without a marking compound, is oxidizing the surface. <= a process called annealing. (As opposed to engraving, which is removal of the material)
You are basically drawing the carbon in the stainless to the surface, creating contrast. Therefore the resultant mark is prone to rusting if left bare.
Always consider the end use your products before making the decision. It may be that a marking compound will be the better choice.
And although RPosty is on the right track, a 'good' Nd:YAG laser marker will have a closed loop water circuit (not allowing air entry) and will have a deionizing filter with conductivity measuring circuit to prevent flash lamp from firing until the water conductivity falls within preset levels. It will take longer the more the machine has sat idle.
But you should be flushing at least yearly. (same for anything with a flush button. :P )
Go fiber, galvo system if mark size is small enough, xy if not. (or a combo system)
Small, no chiller, low power requirement, plug into wall, usb or ethernet/wifi to pc, and away you go.
RE: CO2 Laser Marking
Worked with one Fiber (IPG), it was very nice. If your company can afford it, I would go with tstc's suggestion.
"I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, 'cause they are stuck on me"
RE: CO2 Laser Marking
RE: CO2 Laser Marking
Fiber bypasses all of the issues mentioned earlier about YAG, and for marking you don't need much power (10-20W should be fine for most applications)... if you need to get a deep etch, you'll want to bump the power up. For small marks (e.g., a few inches in diameter), a galvo will be the best ROI timewise. For large marks, a flatbed is usually the best bet.
Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com