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(OP)
Suggestions as to structurally repair a garage door glulam header18'-3" clear span (3.5"W X 13"H x-section). Owner cut a notch 4"W X 3"H at the center of the span, so that the garage door opener could attach straight in line with the garage door.

I have thought about installing a 4"X4" column in the notch and anchoring to the glulam header and to the floor, effectively now having two 8' spans and replacing the 16' garage door with two 8' wide doors.

sounds like a good plan to me.

Sounds like the wife will hit the column....

Without knowing the loads and doing the calcs, the beam might still be OK??  Check it.

Possible sister joists or steel plates may solve the problem.

If the bottom tension lams were cut, the beam will not be OK, no how, no way, but might if only the top lams were cut.  Why do I think it was the bottom lams?

If it is a Glulam beam, and not a Parallam, the section is probably more like 3.125 X 13.5, which seems small for the span to me.  It may be lightly loaded as Mike suggested, but the remaining section depth pf 9.5 to 10.5", depending on the depth makes it even less likely to be adequate.

Arfa1, is there any way you can post a section on this here?

Is the beam currently shored?  How long has it been this way?

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
Motto:  KISS

Further here, the normal dimensions of a Pwould be 3.5" X 14" in the range you are talking as opposed to the glulam dimensions mentioned above.

In that the dimensions you have mentioned in your first post are a mix of the two, you need to verify the type of beam here.  A parallam will not be quite as critical as a glulam as there are no tension lams in a Parallam.

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
Motto:  KISS

(OP)
Gentlemen,

Got no wife, no worries about ramming column.

Light load (location is Phoenix, ie: no snow, no mechanical).

It is the Tension side that's notched. Residence built 1985. No shoring at damage point. Unknown how long in this condition. Re-measured, I came up with 3.125" X 13.0". We have a Glulam, not Parallam

I took a photo and will see if it will attach to this post.

Regards,
Arfa1

So the tension lam is cut and strapping will not work due to the track.  Only can use half stresses on the rest of the section - 1200 instead of 2400 psi if a 24FV4.

If needed, I would strongly suggest installing a steel channel section at each side of the remaining section, as deep as you can get it, and stitch-bolt them together.  I do not think sistering on additional glulams to each side will be sufficient, but you can check.

Oh, and when you are done, castrate whomever did this.

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
Motto:  KISS

I am sure that installing a column will solve the problem - but when you go to sell it the new owner will want it out.

But with out knowing how it is framed and expected loads - no one can give you an intelligent answer.  That beam might still be OK??

Sistering the joist is a possibility.

hey Arfa1 - FYI - I'm a lady, not a gentleman.  there are a few of us on here :D

and I'll have y'all know that husband hits the garage sides more than I ever have.  so there.

to slta -

I made the first suggestion.  My fault. Sorry. There are many fine lady engineers out there.  I almost married one.

But with a blonde wife, a blonde daughter and two blond grand daughters - I have had my share of repairing or fixing anything and everything.

Nothing against blonds - obviously I LOVE blondes - but this group of lovely ladies could break a bowling ball or wreck a bomb shelter. BELIEVE ME.

OOOHHH Mikeey...  You're in the dog house now!

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
Motto:  KISS

(OP)
Gentlepersons,

It has been over 30 years since I was sitting in a structures class and all reference books have long turned to dust - so I was looking into Rosboro's "elementary" online Glulam Tech Guide and using their assumptions to get some basic allowables for 18'3" and 9'3" headers. The effective depth header now that it has been cut is approx. 9"-10". Therefore not acceptable for 18' span, but more than adequate for 9' span.

Mike, yes - am looking at making the header safe now, and in the future if/when home is sold - to be an obviously approvable solution to home inspector (or whomever).

To this end, it seemed column is simplest, low cost, no question as to safety and acceptable load and no engineering required. (although I am a P.E., I have no experience with structures). Rather than attempt to sister or stitch another beam - creating questions as to suitability, strength, sufficiency. ecetera.

Two 8' garage doors is a hastle (a given) but an acceptable one. Just looking to solve this problem, and move on to the next one (they seem to come more often these days)

Am I reading this right, or is there a more simpler elegant solution.

Regards.

I would have thought replacing a big garage door with two small ones would cost more than reinforcing the beam.  And if you do put in two small doors with openers, the problem will reoccur at quarter points, won't it?  Agree with M^2, bolting channels to the sides would be my solution.

To M^2 - I am always in "trouble".  About the only thing I can't or haven't fixed is a "broken heart" or the "crack of dawn".

Two garage doors and openers will easily run over $1000 - maybe$2000.

Do what has been suggested:
Sister the joist or
Install side plates or

whatever your structural engineer says to do.  It will be cheaper, safer and more salable.  Believe me.

(OP)
I overlooked to mention (assumed you read my mind) that garage door has also failed and has to be replaced in any case, along with any solution implemented.

Regards.

One big door and one opener is still a lot cheaper than two of each.  Check it out.

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