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drill and dowel

drill and dowel

drill and dowel

(OP)
assuming a 3/4" dowel is used to connect new slab to old slab to help prevent differential settlement/movement and is to be epoxied in place. What size drill hole would be required?

RE: drill and dowel

Check with dowel supplier.  People like Hilti and Simpson have all the charts and equipment you might need.

RE: drill and dowel

(OP)
so far hilti and simpson are of little help

RE: drill and dowel

(OP)
except I'm not specifiying an adhesive anchor, a drilled and epoxied dowel. My assumption is that contractor will buy plain steel bars, 3/4 x 24" long. Use a 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch or whatever and drill the existing structure. Insert epoxy into hole and insert dowel. Form and pour the second structure.

RE: drill and dowel

cvg...it makes little difference other than you don't want the dowel to move sloppily in the hole. The dowels won't be taking tension, so the epoxy isn't even necessary other than to keep them in place during construction.  With that in mind I would drill for the same size as if you were using an epoxy set for a threaded rod.

As with pavement dowels, grease the exposed side before placing concrete.

RE: drill and dowel

I have done exactly what Ron suggests  many times over.  

No epoxy just drill same hole and hammer in dowels.

Many semis over and never had a problem.

RE: drill and dowel

cvg - the Hilti RE500 is epoxy.

 

RE: drill and dowel

Ron is right -- it doesn't matter. But if you must have some kind of written justification look up Simpson SET-XP in their catalog or on-line. It list values specifically for rebars -- for a #6 bar as you allude to in your original post, the value for "drill bit diameter" is 7/8". 1/8" larger than dowel size is pretty standard regardless of epoxy manufacturer or application.

RE: drill and dowel

Jenny's right. Most manufacturers call for a drill bit sized one eighth larger than the bar size, so in your case a 3/4" or #6 bar would call for a 7/8" drill bit.

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