Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
(OP)
I am specifying a large (for me...20" ID) transmission line through what will in the foreseeable future be the back yard of residential lots. My gut impression is that fused pipe, vs bell and spigot, will be less prone to leaks that could upset the future homeowners. Does anybody have experience to bolster or refute that perception?
The line will also run through an electrical power corridor, which the power company's license agreement states may be subject to line pullers weighing up to 65 tons. With 5' of cover in a Type IV backfilled trench, it doesn't seem that there would be a pipe that could really handle that kind of loading...so my gut feel is to go with an HDPE, thinking that it is less likely to be brittle than a fusible PVC, assuming we install fusible, based on the residential alignment mentioned above. Any experiences out there that would lead to some warnings or pitfalls or recommendations? Thank you...some of you are amazing in your breadth and depth of knowledge and presence on this site!
The line will also run through an electrical power corridor, which the power company's license agreement states may be subject to line pullers weighing up to 65 tons. With 5' of cover in a Type IV backfilled trench, it doesn't seem that there would be a pipe that could really handle that kind of loading...so my gut feel is to go with an HDPE, thinking that it is less likely to be brittle than a fusible PVC, assuming we install fusible, based on the residential alignment mentioned above. Any experiences out there that would lead to some warnings or pitfalls or recommendations? Thank you...some of you are amazing in your breadth and depth of knowledge and presence on this site!





RE: Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
Since you know that you have to design for 65 ton line pullers, why would you not use granular trench backfill?
Bell & spigot piping is generally preferred because of the flexible joints that can accomodate some ground movement with breaking or leaking.
RE: Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
While 65 tons sounds like a lot, gross vehicle weight is only part of the equation. For example, an AASHTO HS20 truck has a 16 kip axle load. If you have two HS20 trucks passing, you have a point live load of 32 kips plus a 1.2 or higher impact factor which puts you at nearly 40 kips. Probably higher than your wire puller. You really need to look at the axle spacing, tire size and pressure etc. to determine the actual live load. Most pipes can handle minimum cover of 3 feet in an unpaved road, so 5 feet is not bad.
RE: Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
RE: Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?
Let's say an Owner basically needs a transmission pipeline with a "20-inch" diameter flow area that is 12,000 feet long, and with a maximum working pressure (let's say at the lowest point of the pipeline) of 170 psi (and with water etc. temperatures that will never exceed 80 degrees F. (thermal is of course an important consideration with plastic pipes) Let's say that the Owner further likes to see a field hydrostatic test of say 250 psi (of course that is roughly 1-1/2 times the stated working pressure) after complete installation (involving pipe manufacture, shipping, handling, and finally complete burial/impacts etc.) for such a pipeline.
These working and testing conditions would appear to basically require, per Table 9 of AWWA C906 standard, a 24" DR 9-ish hdpe pipe that rates 193-200 psi working pressure etc. Per Table 6 of AWWA C906. It would further appear per Table 6 of that same standard that 24" DIOD (ductile iron O.D.) DR9 hdpe pipe would have a maximum possible flow diameter of 25.80" O.D. – 2(2.867) = 20.07" (OK for the hydraulic conditions stated). Per the proprietary field hydrostatic testing requirements for hdpe (I accessed today at http:/
On the other hand lets say minimum Pressure Class 200 20" ductile iron pipe also rates some higher than a working pressure of 170 psi and can be field tested up to at least 300 psi (when all components in a system can withstand that level of test). Per Table No. 17-4 of the site at http://www.acipco.com/adip/products/Sect17.pdf the inside diameter of this 20" cementlined ductile iron pipe is 20.75" (of course OK and also larger than the above 24" even DIOD hdpe pipe). Per Table 5A of AWWA C600 standard for testing of ductile iron pipelines, a Contractor etc. is allowed a make-up water allowance of 2.24 gallons/1,000 feet length of pipeline per hour. Consequently, for a 2 hour test of the whole DI pipeline, no more than 2 hr x2.24 gal/hr (12,000 feet/1,000 feet) or 53.8 gallons of make-up water is allowable in field testing of this ductile iron pipeline.
I guess it is somehow conceivable (with all the weird things that can happen in pipeline profiles and durations of field testing etc.) that both pipelines are OK, but with allowable make-up water pumped back in to a buried hdpe pipeline of 1,068 gallons vs 53.8 gallons for DIP (nearly 20 times more for the hdpe), it is certainly not obvious that the hdpe is proven better, nor necessarily for that matter more actually proven "leak-tight" at joints, defects or damages, in this installation. I would recommend of course that you run your own numbers, and for your actual design/installation conditions.
As far as "brittle"(ness) is concerned, I guess it is possible that polyethylene is less brittle than pvc. However, what causes pipes to break can be a lot more complicated than that, and gets into detailed fracture mechanics and other fields. In this regard, however, ductile metals in general have far greater fracture toughness, and can also tolerate far greater "critical crack" or flaw/damage "lengths" etc., than the common plastics.
All have a good weekend.
RE: Water transmission main through residential and power-tips?