"Machining Nickel Alloys"  . A Nickel Development Institute reference book, Series N 11 008

I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." — Thomas Edison
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This type of "orange peel" damage if often caused by excessive heat building up in at the point of cut -- some times a very heavy duty soluble oil or straight oil to reduce rubbing friction can do wonders -- you will need a fluid with maximum hydrodynamic lubricity - EP lubricity will probably not be effective
 

A.R. "Andy" Nelson
Engineering Consultant
anelson@arnengineering.com

Thanks for the reply,
I've try many ways to avoid the "orange Peel" I've taken very light cuts even tried cutting .003" and still get the same thing. I also tried cutting with oil to no success I'm starting to think that it's just the Material.

Not had any experience with Hastelloy, but I've often found "orange Peel" is caused by edge rubbing and tip dulling, especially on light cuts and found that a smaller tip radius on the insert helps minimise this.

 

Have you reviewed this information from Haynes, the producer of Hastelloy?

http://www.haynesintl.com/pdf/h2010.pdf

The others have identified the issue: too much heat generated by a dull tool.  Are you using carbide inserts?  A premium oil-based lubricant that is formulated for nickel-based alloys?  Have you discussed your application with one of the insert manufacturers like Seco, Valenite, Sandvik, etc.?  The latest generation coated carbide tools are significantly better at retaining a sharp edge, and with proper tool setup, the heat should go with the chip, not remain in the workpiece.

Thanks for all the tips. . . I will follow through with all.  

Sharp and very stout setup is what you need. Don't push it. Slow.

Hi there,my name is Kevin Hanson,Im english but have been living in holland for the last 28 years.The problem your having is a combination of heat build up in the cutting zone,another thing could be that the coolant is not oily enough.Cant think of the english word,I mean make the % as high as possible.What works really well on the super alloys is the Jet Stream Tooling from Seco Tools in combination with the new aerospace grades.I have some customers that turn alot of this material and also Inconel 718.The results that you can achieve with this a fantastic.   I,m a cutting technology engineer for Secohier in Holland.regards Kevin.

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If I remember rightly about this material, you have to use carbide tips for alloy steel and when you machine it, never dwell or the material starts to harden i.e machine it like you mean to, dont mess with it.Also, slow down as this stuff seems to toughrn off if you get it too hot.

hi 1wise.like said it could be a problem with the material itself but I dont think thats likely.I machine a lot of super alloys when doing tests and troble shooting here in holland for Seco Tools.You should really use sharp very positive inserts.PVD micro grain inserts.

what is the machine, feed & speeds?
what type of coolant/
what type of holder & inserts.

I use to work with this stuff it does not not like small
feeds rates & depth of cut. Work Hardens like hell.

.015 min depth of cut when finishing.very very slow with carbide, , very fast with ceramic.
.050-.060 or more depth of cut with ceramic inserts.
depending on the rigity & horspower of your machine.
surface feed depends on the inserts.

Recommended from the Machining Hand Book  Volume 1

Annealed or Solution Treated.
Carbide inserts C-2 grade, depth of cut .030, 100 SFPM , feed.005-.007 IPR
Carbide inserts C-2 grade, depth of cut .100, 90 SFPM , feed.005-.007 IPR
 

only engage 10% to 15% of the cutter cutting edge to allow it to cool



The trick here is to do the RPM's per the cutters diameter and composition, which determines the surface feet. Then you can go fast as feed will permit and or finish requirement allows. However, only engage 10% to 15% of the cutter cutting edge to allow it to cool. I, myself didn't believe it at first. But I saw it with my own eyes and was amazed.