Remedying understeer
Remedying understeer
(OP)
Hi all,
I've spent much time perusing this forum but never really posted. Now, however, I have a question regarding an understeering problem.
I'm designing the front suspension of an off-road Baja SAE vehicle (in conjunction with the rear end team) for a design project at Uni. The lastest generations have had a nasty understeer problem, particularly at turn in. Some of the guys believe that by adding more roll in the front relative to the rear by means of a lower roll center will help this.
I, however, am not sold on this. I am a novice though, but I have been reading up on books such as "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Miliken & Miliken in order to get a better feel for this. Am I misunderstanding something here? The old car has a wheel base of 64" with the new model shortened to 61". Also, the track is 58" being narrowed to 56". What would you all recommend as a remedy for this understeer problem?
Thanks
I've spent much time perusing this forum but never really posted. Now, however, I have a question regarding an understeering problem.
I'm designing the front suspension of an off-road Baja SAE vehicle (in conjunction with the rear end team) for a design project at Uni. The lastest generations have had a nasty understeer problem, particularly at turn in. Some of the guys believe that by adding more roll in the front relative to the rear by means of a lower roll center will help this.
I, however, am not sold on this. I am a novice though, but I have been reading up on books such as "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Miliken & Miliken in order to get a better feel for this. Am I misunderstanding something here? The old car has a wheel base of 64" with the new model shortened to 61". Also, the track is 58" being narrowed to 56". What would you all recommend as a remedy for this understeer problem?
Thanks





RE: Remedying understeer
You might want to increase the front roll stiffness to increase the 'bite' of the outside wheel.
You might want to soften the front roll stiffness to increase the cornering stiffness of the outside wheel.
You might want to reduce the ackerman to get the outer wheel working harder
You might want to increase the ackerman to get more turn in drag from the inner wheel.
Interesting isn't it?
Cheers
Greg Locock
Please see FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips.
RE: Remedying understeer
What kind of tires do you / can you use?
Got any pictures?
RE: Remedying understeer
I will say that reducing the front RC will reduce steady-state Understeer, but may make your turn-in problem worse...
RE: Remedying understeer
For your job as front suspension release engineer, make sure the static and dynamic geometry makes best use of the front tire grip on the surface you want to excel on: dirt, hills, or the spalled concrete rocks. Plenty of wheel travel and a good shock compression front/rear ratio will get the car to turn.
Mske a tire tester using a local railroad siding and an A frame that you can measure reaction forces under various steer, camber, load and pressure settings. The results will startle most judges. You may find that you need a different tire profile up there if she still won't cut.
RE: Remedying understeer
Aday said "I will say that reducing the front RC will reduce steady-state Understeer, but may make your turn-in problem worse..."
I thought that for a simple model with all thing being about equal (tires, cg location, etc) lowering the roll center on one end of the car would increase the steady state weight transfer across that axle and therefore that axle would have reduced cornering power.
For the suggestion above, wouldn't the steady-state understeer of the vehicle increase?
Thx
RE: Remedying understeer
Unfortunately every vehicle dynamics book I have seen gives an explanation of RC that is incorrect to varying degrees. Most of the confusion seems to stem from the name 'roll center' which incorrectly implies that the vehicle will literally roll about this point. However there are some very good SAE papers on the subject that are accurate. Assymetric Roll Center's by Bill Mitchell comes to mind...
RE: Remedying understeer
The other clue is front/rear static weight distribution.
Is there no traction at the front because the outside front tire is insufficiently loaded (no bite), or is it because the outside front tire is being grossly overloaded ?
Try to figure out why that tire is coming unglued. It either requires more weight transfer in roll at the front, or less weight transfer in roll at the front, depending what the problem is.
RE: Remedying understeer
Sorry if this is slightly off topic, but I ask because as I understand it, raising the roll center will increase the amount of load transferred through the springs/shocks/swaybar, which in turn causes more roll. I think I've been able to make the distinction between "roll center" and what causes a vehicle to roll, but it still makes sense to me that raising the roll center will cause the vehicle to roll more at that end.
RE: Remedying understeer
Raising the roll centre at one end will increase the roll resistance of that end of the car and will make it roll less, normally.
Draw a free body diagram to demonstrate this.
Cheers
Greg Locock
Please see FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips.
RE: Remedying understeer
I was reading about the center of percussion in Chassis Design. How low can you go with the k^2/ab ratio? It seems our wheelbase is a bit too long (62.75"). I think our k^2/ab ratio is about .75.
Do you guys see any problems with running parallel SLA in the front?
RE: Remedying understeer
OK then, what's your roll stiffness distribution front to rear, ignoring this damper effect? And how does this change through the corner, once you factor in the dampers? What's this going to do for your understeer?
I appreciate that baja tyres on dirt might not behave 'classically' in this respect, but at least you should take a look...
Regards, Ian
RE: Remedying understeer
RE: Remedying understeer
That sounds like a bad idea! I am going to take a wild shot at this and say that you are trying to control the rear too much initially. I bet when you drive it, you can't feel the rear moving or rolling too much, But I bet you feel the front trying to roll and stroke the suspension. If you roll ballance is more toward the rear, initially the vehicle won't turn in or respond very well, it wants to stay going straight, then it may snap to an oversteer condition later on in the turn. I would strongly suggest using a rear stabilizer bar and not try to increase your roll stiffness with dampers. It never works, and is not a very good idea for off road setups.
As an OEM development engineer, when I set up the basic roll ballance and spring rates in a car, I don't use ANY damping. I litterally drill a hole in an old damper and drain ALL the oil out so all I am left with is a place holder for the spring and the residual friction of the damper. The vehicle will behave a little strange, but you can tell right away if your roll balance is off, or if your front to rear spring balance is off. You basically use pitching rate, ride frequency, and roll balance as a judge to see what needs to be changed on the car. After this is done, then I start adding damping force to the system. I may come back and make slight changes to the springs and sway bars, but only very minor changes.
RE: Remedying understeer
http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope
RE: Remedying understeer
Here is how we handled the sand buggy. It has about 58% rear 42% front weight distribution and about 16 inches of suspension travel. It has no anti roll bars. We set the suspension relatively soft all around with soft to medium dampening. Fully adjustable shocks. Front and rear a-arms. The car is about 90 inch wheelbase and 66 inch track. From memory. Liken to a giant R/C car. It has 150 hp and in crusing gear about 9:1 overall gear ratio. It has a live rear axel, no diff. It is capable of over 110 mph as it sits on typical ATV trails. Very fast to say the least.
The driving style that works the best is to enter the corner very fast and quickly let off the throttle so the front end dives or loads then steer and hammer the throttle. The result is that the front end digs in hard then the rear end just drives it thru the corner. You can do multiple S turns very easily with this technic. However if you try to just power thru a turn you will go off the trail as the front end pushes or understeers. We have not tried it on pavement as there are no paved areas on the trails.
We tried at least half a dozen spring rates and the entire range of shock adjustment. For the most part it is the driving that determins how this car handles. We do use 2-3 springs for a progressive rate. The car is grossly out of its element on ATV trails but considering that it weighs about the same it is only larger and more powerful.
As SusTest.. says you really cannot feel suspension changes. We have tried making changes and not telling the driver on purpose and he cannot tell the difference. We have video taped and you can see some difference in roll after multiple passes thru the same corner. It is more sensitive to ride height than spring/dampening. I'd like to try anti roll bars maybe this summer.
99 Dodge CTD dually.
RE: Remedying understeer
In the big snow storm a few weeks ago our Toro snow blower
(Vintage 1971) reminded me that a non-diff axle with decent traction REALLY likes to go straight, to the extent the Toro is a one handed machine except on wet ice, which is fortunate since the drive control is either on or off, and is controlled by the shift lever on the dashboard, so trying to inch forward, like to chew thru a heavy drift or pull close to a car, requires driving with one hand on and manipulating the shifter. For serious turning they provide a large knobbed control beside each grip to disengage either wheel independently to allow power turns.
Don't/didn't buggies have split rear emergency brakes to allow similar induced turning.
RE: Remedying understeer
They needed to only be used in moderation to avoid differential gear damage. As well as steering, they could be used to stop a spinning wheel and transfer power to the wheel with traction, just like used in farm equipment tractors.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
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RE: Remedying understeer
Here's a question, will roll center locations have any effect on what we're trying to do? Right now we're trying to decide if it is better to raise the front roll center to gain a better camber curve. Initially we had decided that a higher roll center in the rear and lower in the front would be ideal for our new vehicle (in comparison to the previous one).
RE: Remedying understeer
Cheers
Greg Locock
SIG:Please see FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips.
RE: Remedying understeer
RE: Remedying understeer
Cheers
Greg Locock
SIG:Please see FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips.
RE: Remedying understeer
Our problem has been that the front tires are not biting enough because there has not been enough force on them.
RE: Remedying understeer
It is the forces that resist roll that act through the suspension.
By having more roll resistance at the front and less at the rear, the front outside wheel takes more of the load.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
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RE: Remedying understeer
Roll is the observable result of lateral load transfer onto the elastic suspension elements (springs, sta-bars, tires, sometimes shocks/dampers), not the cause of it.
In situations like this where the load has more than one path (the two suspensions & their tires), it tends to go where the greater stiffness is, in proportion to that stiffness vs the stiffness at the other end. Raising the front RC effectively stiffens the front without affecting the rear . . .
Norm
RE: Remedying understeer
Our buggy has so much power coming out of the turns that it nearly carries the tires so it is important to get the line set up early in the corner. Basically just steer with the throttle. If you make a mistake you are off the trail in an instant....ask the 6 inch tree I hit at 60+.
99 Dodge CTD dually.
RE: Remedying understeer
Those that took his advice of 18 to 20 psi had recurring tyre and rim problems as well as slower lap times.
There is a lot more to cornering off road than tyre temperature and co-efficient of friction.
You can dampen the rebound of a spring, but how do you dampen the rebound of a tyre sidewall.
Also if you hit an embankment hard with one wheel as you are turning tyre compliance has a lot more effect than does the tyre rubber being at optimum temperature.
Regards
eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
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RE: Remedying understeer
Most of my experience says that the rear of the car should have high roll stiffness and the front low: Many teams run a rear sway bar and I've never seen a team with one on the front, teams with solid rear axles and swingarm supension (like sport atv's) generally turn well, and our car seemed to turn better with softer springs on the front.
RE: Remedying understeer
What most teams do to allow the rear to slide and take the corners faster is to overload the rear axle to point that it breaks loose. With a high rear roll stiffness, the rear tires are overloaded and with a little bit of throttle they break loose. Our team runs a swing arm (very high roll stiffness), some teams with an independent rear run ARBs, and some teams just try to through off the rear traction with high tire pressures and positive camber.
If you start messing with spring rates, make sure you consider jumps. A soft front spring rate can cause the car to dive over a jump even more than most of the Bajas already do. In order to your can jumping decently, you'll need to look into increasing the relative roll stiffness of the rear apart from the springs.
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Joel Harshbarger
USF Motorsports