Noise Abatement
Noise Abatement
(OP)
Hi all!
I have been called in on a product that is having some difficulty that needs a solution.
Essentially it is an OT-Shelf video camera/display screen that gets bought, disassembled, and reassembled into a different form factor.
Well the fly-in-the-ointment is the original camera head (size is about 1/2 a walnut) was plugged directly onto the main board with a tiny ~20pin connector. the new geometry results in the camera head having to be about 6" away. The 'uninformed solution' was to "just put a cable in". A ribbon cable resulted in nasty video artifacts that rendered the unit useless.
The next attempt was to run individual wires, twenty of them. This was marginally better as with all those itty bitty wires ungrouped the system works well. As soon as you gather those wires into a bundle things go sour. The display which is fed from data received over these wires and subsequently processed into what the LCD displays starts showing horizontal lines of non-sense spread over the video image. As you squeeze the wire-bundle together this gets much worse - as you spread it out it gets much better to the point that all the defects disappear. Of course the assembled product needs them mostly bundled.
I know what I'm going to do to try to solve this but I would really like your informed input and hunches before I join battle with this thing. Note: there are no schematics or even any information available for the ICs used. I'm flying totally blind on this.
I have been called in on a product that is having some difficulty that needs a solution.
Essentially it is an OT-Shelf video camera/display screen that gets bought, disassembled, and reassembled into a different form factor.
Well the fly-in-the-ointment is the original camera head (size is about 1/2 a walnut) was plugged directly onto the main board with a tiny ~20pin connector. the new geometry results in the camera head having to be about 6" away. The 'uninformed solution' was to "just put a cable in". A ribbon cable resulted in nasty video artifacts that rendered the unit useless.
The next attempt was to run individual wires, twenty of them. This was marginally better as with all those itty bitty wires ungrouped the system works well. As soon as you gather those wires into a bundle things go sour. The display which is fed from data received over these wires and subsequently processed into what the LCD displays starts showing horizontal lines of non-sense spread over the video image. As you squeeze the wire-bundle together this gets much worse - as you spread it out it gets much better to the point that all the defects disappear. Of course the assembled product needs them mostly bundled.
I know what I'm going to do to try to solve this but I would really like your informed input and hunches before I join battle with this thing. Note: there are no schematics or even any information available for the ICs used. I'm flying totally blind on this.
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com





RE: Noise Abatement
A hunch;
How about removing one wire at a time from the bundle? If you can identify the problem wire/circuit you may go for a shielded cable for that circuit and ribbon cable the rest.
Respectfully
RE: Noise Abatement
Bill has already put you on the right track (use shielded wire for the sensitive signals and unshielded for the rest).
To identify the sensitive wires, that need shielding, use an oscilloscope to probe each signal. Those who look analogue are the ones needing special treatment. Pure digital signals seldom need shields. An added bonus with shields is that they make the ground connection a lot stiffer - yes, solder to ground at both ends. Don't listen to those know-it-all guys saying that shields shall only be connected one end.
Good luck! Sounds like a nervous job. Not much space there, I imagine (no pun intended).
Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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100 % recycled posting: Electrons, ideas, finger-tips have been used over and over again...
RE: Noise Abatement
If it is analog video, then it is likely that the video signal is broken out onto several pins with the H amd V sync pulses on their own wires. Concentrate on shielding the one analog video wire first, the sync pulses are pretty rugged. Keep any other digital signals (noise) away from the primary analog video.
If it is colour, then you might have R, G and B video signals, so you'd need to concentrate on those three first.
If it is some sort of proprietary all-digital interface, then you simply need to keep the pulses on one wire away from the pulses on the other wire.
PS: Our on-staff 'know-it-all guy' sometimes recommends grounding the shield at one end only on the SECOND (outer) LAYER of shielding (if appplicable).
I suspect that a roll of RG-174 should be able to sort the whole mess out - for your prototype at least.
Good luck.
RE: Noise Abatement
Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com
RE: Noise Abatement
http://www.ovt.com/products/app_table.asp?id=4
The smallest package is a 22-pin deal, consistent with the number of wires indicated. These guys are pretty cool, fully self-contained w.r.t. A/D and direct digital video output. Note that the pixel and other clocks are generated off-chip, hence there are issues with ensuring clock integrity and isolation.
TTFN
RE: Noise Abatement
Definitely a "ground both ends" thing.
Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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100 % recycled posting: Electrons, ideas, finger-tips have been used over and over again...
RE: Noise Abatement
Last night I just got the system functioning as all the cables to the different parts and the battery have NO indicators as to polarity. I had to painstakingly analyse everything to even figure out how to plug the mess together.
I started by finding the only two identifiable devices; 74LXC244. From that I was able to deduce which of the four battery prongs was the ground. I was also able to find the (3) lone grounds in the 'problem' cable to the camera head. Their pattern allowed me to find the same pattern on the camera head and thus plug everything together and turn it on without letting the smoke out.
The Cable has in-fact 36 wires in it!! They terminate on the main board near the 244s but then so does the 20 pin ribbon that runs the display so I am not yet sure if the 244 run the camera or the display or possibly one each. I will check that soon.
Other info. The 'Problem' looks like this. Picture a VGA screen about 2x2 inches.
Perhaps of the 640 horizontal lines that are showing my brown desktop 40 will instead be blue lines that cross the display horizontally. They mostly only span about 1/2 to 3/4 of the display, always starting from one side.
To my surprise they change dramatically with what the image has in it. Jamming my finger into the image may cause a huge multiplication of the bad lines and they may all run out to my middle-of-the-screen-area finger image. They then track my finger.
The camera head appears to have NO other IC on the board only about 40 passives. (Res and caps) so I think this is fully digital info washing across the cable. Keep in mind this handmade cable is 36 of the smallest diameter wirewrap wire you can get ~30AWG. I don't think there are any analog signals but I am still not sure. Still wondering why you would need that insane number of wires, 20 makes more sense to me but 36?
I suspect IRstuff might be right and the pixel clock is in that mix.. <shudder>
Anyway.. I will be on it again in an hour or so and will front any new info. Thanks for all your great points they are helping me gel things in my head.
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
RE: Noise Abatement
Gunnar, I thought you were one of those advocating ground one end only, always.
Just joking friend. I know that normal grounding practice for power circuit shields doesn't apply here.
Respectfully
RE: Noise Abatement
What about an overall shielded cable, similar to an IDE cable for a PC? You could go to a custom cable shop to have the proper connectors put on.
JRaef.com
"Engineers like to solve problems. If there are no problems handily available, they will create their own problems." Scott Adams
For the best use of Eng-Tips, please click here -> FAQ731-376
RE: Noise Abatement
waross; Yes, I think that's why I see 3 GNDs and (2)3.3V
Jraef; I'd love to use that stuff but I think it is way to big. (36)wires in a connect 0.375" long.
Here is what a survey of the signals comes up with.
Note the wires marked GND can be ohmmed out to actual ground.
The ones marked GND? Cannot be - but never show any activity!!
(12) DATA I haven't actually seen a CLK unless one of the sine waves is it.
I'm considering building a cable without the GND?s present to see what happens... Getting rid of 14 wires could help with a solution if they where just part of a connector for mechanical structure on the original configuration.
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
Specifically a Micron MT9V403.
http
Now I have more info on the parts. Clearly it is running in full color VGA mode at 24Mhz CLK and subsequently at 70 frames/sec.
The cable should be totally impedance controlled in my opinion and is not, being made of WWWire. Since the actual video defects are so specific I am still hoping that perhaps the CLK is the biggest problem. Knowing which pin it THE clock from the data sheet will now let me hop from the imaging device back to the cable and confirm which is the clock and for that matter, why there seems to be two of them. The (2)24Mhz sine waves.
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
This is one of the "eternal truths" I was warning for. Having GND connected via a (thin) wire and return currents going through that couples noise by transformer action between wires a lot more than having GND connected via the shield. Noise current flows on all sides of the wires inside the shield and produce no net magnetic field that can induce noise in internal conductors.
A shield is also a low impedance conductor that will reduce common mode voltage between the two subsystems to a minimum compared with having one (thin) wire for ground connection.
My comment about 6" - a clear ground both ends stands. I do a lot of trouble-shooting on high-power PWM systems where signal components go close to 100 MHz and I have seen this mythical "ground one end only" cause many problems. And also some good money for yours truly.
Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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100 % recycled posting: Electrons, ideas, finger-tips have been used over and over again...
RE: Noise Abatement
Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com
RE: Noise Abatement
RE: Noise Abatement
Spectrum of these signals goes well above 30 MHz. That is close to 100 MHz in my world. I am referring to MOSFET power stages. IGBT spectra seldom reach more than 10 or 20 MHz.
Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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100 % recycled posting: Electrons, ideas, finger-tips have been used over and over again...
RE: Noise Abatement
The gross difference between my cable and theirs is that:
1) I used colored wire..
2) They potted the ends of theirs and mine was for my exploration so I didn't pot mine.
Q: You guys think that clear epoxy potting would increase the inter-wire coupling capacitance?
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com
RE: Noise Abatement
Point of technical merit. You say:
>Noise current flows on all sides of the wires inside the shield and produce no net magnetic field that can induce noise in internal conductors.
Not true. An inner conductor has mutual inductance with the coax shield. Therefore the shield has the same mutual inductance with the inner conductor. This is an application of the reciprocity theorem. I know it is impossible to get your head around how the outer couples to the inner, but you have to believe in the reciprocity theorem!
RE: Noise Abatement
I guess that I am too old to learn new views on things. But I shall give it a try.
For the time being, I still think that it is much better to have the return in the shield than in a nearby unshielded conductor.
Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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100 % recycled posting: Electrons, ideas, finger-tips have been used over and over again...
RE: Noise Abatement
14 of the lines stab into the bottom of the board and are blind soldered from the side the wires enter from, as the other side is not accessible. I did not know that the wires would blind up against wires in the socket that were exposed on the bottom of the socket. My cable wouldn't work and so after checking I saw this was a possibility. I went back and heated these leads and backed them out about 0.010". The cable then worked. THEY ON THE OTHER HAND knew about this and so have put a piece of Capton tape under the connector to prevent this problem. So actually that is another difference between our two cables.
Lengths are very close to the same. +/- 1/8"
I cannot cause the problem with my cable by any manipulation of [my] cable. My leads do all spring straight out of the little boards and theirs all swoop to the middle of the little boards about 3/8-1/2" above it and are subsequently constrained by the clear epoxy.
Keep in mind the little boards are about 1/3 the size of a postage stamp.
Maybe they washed the board and residue has contaminated the Capton tape tying, socket connectors on one side and blind leads on the other, together via high resistance tracks.
You guys trying to hijack this thread.. Have at it! Honestly, I do not mind a bit. Especially since it is related.
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
Kapton is known to break down (to carbon) when exposed to water, which is why USAF doesn't/can't wash it's F-16s (with Kapton insulated harnesses).
I am not kidding. Look it up.
Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
RE: Noise Abatement
Thanks Mike.
I thought Capton looked wrong.. Kapton!
Keith Cress
Flamin Systems, Inc.- http://www.flaminsystems.com
RE: Noise Abatement
Still, washing may be an issue... if high quantities of flux and other junk gets trapped in the Kapton, you may have a high-resistance electrical path there. Worth checking out.
Keith, can you get a hold of any of their boards (showing the problem) without the potting? Check the resistance of their cabling and see if it's high. I'm going to assume there's no change in cable layout between theirs and yours, but if that assumption is false, we're talking a noise issue. Are the connectors different?
Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com
RE: Noise Abatement
>For the time being, I still think that it is much better to have the return in the shield than in a nearby unshielded conductor.
I don't disagree. The mutual inductance between innner and outer conductors is one of the key properties that makes a coax cable good above 1kHz or so.