To rout or not to rout...
To rout or not to rout...
(OP)
Has anyone ever tried using a standard woodworking router for doing weld preparation? I have looked at some of the bevelers on the market and some of them just seem like overpriced routers. One of the bevelers that I found had a 1 hp motor and had the perfect depth of cut for what I was trying to do except it will not do inside radii, which I need to do. I can buy a 3 HP router for thousands of dollars less, which can do inside radii. It seems that lack of power should not be an issue.
I know that I would need to use carbide tipped/solid carbide bits in a variable speed router. Do I need to use special bits? I have tried to search for router bits specifically designed for cutting steel but I haven't found any.
What would be the proper speed for cutting steel with a 135 Brinell hardness?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
I know that I would need to use carbide tipped/solid carbide bits in a variable speed router. Do I need to use special bits? I have tried to search for router bits specifically designed for cutting steel but I haven't found any.
What would be the proper speed for cutting steel with a 135 Brinell hardness?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks





RE: To rout or not to rout...
It's been many years since I actually used a metal milling machine, but I recall the tool rotation being somewhat slower.
RE: To rout or not to rout...
RE: To rout or not to rout...
Most bevelers use a single blade cutter with a replaceable carbide insert. If you can find or make the tool holder and you have a router that can stand a certain amount of light oil it should work.
B.E.
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RE: To rout or not to rout...
RE: To rout or not to rout...
E=mc^2
RE: To rout or not to rout...
RE: To rout or not to rout...
regards
Stonecold
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The only wood working tool that I've used on Al is the gear driven "Skil" type saw. I picked this up in 70's from a crew building a large Al tank.
RE: To rout or not to rout...
RE: To rout or not to rout...
As for steel, I would be careful of assuming 3HP is sufficient. The router makes 3HP at 30,000 rpm... the beveling machine likely makes it's 1HP at a much lower RPM (i.e. more torque... thanks MintJulep).
I would guess it would be a tough row to hoe.
RE: To rout or not to rout...
RE: To rout or not to rout...
Thomas J. Walz
Carbide Processors, Inc.
www.carbideprocessors.com
RE: To rout or not to rout...
Have you looked at the Nitto bevelers. NITTO KOHKI USA. INC. Their HB-15B might do what you want.
I was taking a closer look at our beveler and the bottom bearing is massive compared to a wood router, also the one we have is pneumatic.
B.E.
RE: To rout or not to rout...
That is almost identical to the beveler that I was looking at from Heck Industries. It doesn't look like you can do an inside radius though. Is there an attachment that you can buy to do an inside radius?
RE: To rout or not to rout...
I do not know. All we ever use ours for is to angle bevel for welds and to put an outside radius on plate corners.
When we do that the straight carbide insert is exchanged for a radiused insert.
Why don't you ask Nitto what they have?
B.E.
RE: To rout or not to rout...
One thing bothers me about using carbide on aluminum though. If the tool chips or flakes in an area to be welded you will likely have an inclusion from the chip embedding.
One other nasty result is the generation of small slivers that get into and on everything including skin. Eye protection and covered skin!!!
On aluminum, the bigger frustration will likely be clogged burrs and/or build up on the cutter edges even with light feeds because you have so little indication of heat build up at even 8000 rpm.
Not saying it cannot be done just that as a production option it leaves a lot to be desired.
Griffy
RE: To rout or not to rout...