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ESD bore type

ESD bore type

ESD bore type

(OP)
During IP run on 6" gaslift line, BiDi pig got stuck at ESD valve.  Pig was retrieved at launcher side, but would like to analyse why it got stuck.  Probably to check bore type of ESD valve and downstream ball valve whether full bore or reduced bore, is radiography an efficient way?  Or is there any other solution?

RE: ESD bore type

Valves which have pigs run through them should be specified as full conduit bore (pipe ID) and not standard bore.  Never, never, never specify reduced port valves.

If the bore of the valve is less than the pipe ID then you may have to pull the ball and send it to a machine shop.

RE: ESD bore type

It is common for shutdown valves to be reduced port for most applications.  Piggable and very low pressure are among the applications that require full-bore ball valves.  You may be able to obtain details from the nameplate that would differentiate the full-bore from reduced port model.  The factory should also know such details from a serial number.

John

RE: ESD bore type

It is important to note that valves which are designed to pass pigs should be full conduit.  Full conduit and full port are not necessaryily the same bore.

RE: ESD bore type

I don't think radiography will help - is there any way to pass a TV camera down to the ESD valve and take a look?

RE: ESD bore type

Is there nothing on the side of the valve which gives a manufacturers Fig. number or tag number & then ask the manufacturer.

Take some general external measurements and check with manufacturers catalogue this will usually tell you whether you have FB or RB - but it does not mean that full bore is same ID as pipe

RE: ESD bore type

It is customary to have an instrument data sheet for each intrument (an ESD valve is considered an instrument). The datasheet should have the port size filled in.

Have you checked the valve datasheet?

An alternative is to pull the valve and check it. This would involve shutting down your line (unless there is a bypass), and a field crew.

With regards to checking with the manufacturer, I don't think that will work. In my local area, the manufacturer would most likely not give an answer. The reasons are many, and it basically boils down to this - once it leave their shop, they can not control what happens to their product, and due to legal issues, will most likely not commit to anything without investigating it themselves (in this case, they would probably charge you to send a tech there to pull the valve and check the port).

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