Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
(OP)
Hi all!
My client wants to build a small residence (@ 110 sq. m footprint) in a coastal zone with a high water table. Soil borings show standing water at - 58" and a seasonal high water table at - 38". He wants a full cellar and is willing to live with a bit of dampness if necessary. Local land use regulations would put the top of the floor slab no higher than 45 to 48" below grade (otherwise the "cellar" becomes a "basement" and must be counted as a "story").
I have never designed a cellar with a floor below seasonal high water or so close to the water table. My calculations suggest that by excavating right down to the standing water and then placing a rubber membrane, 6" of coarse gravel and 6" concrete slab, we will have a slab with its top at - 46" that will not "float" under worst case scenario. I would also place two independent drain tile systems, one under the slab, and one a bit higher outside the footings, both piped to two sump pits and pumped to daylight. The foregoing, however, is purely academic. Does anyone have some real world experience in this area that they would be so kind as to share?
Thank you all.
My client wants to build a small residence (@ 110 sq. m footprint) in a coastal zone with a high water table. Soil borings show standing water at - 58" and a seasonal high water table at - 38". He wants a full cellar and is willing to live with a bit of dampness if necessary. Local land use regulations would put the top of the floor slab no higher than 45 to 48" below grade (otherwise the "cellar" becomes a "basement" and must be counted as a "story").
I have never designed a cellar with a floor below seasonal high water or so close to the water table. My calculations suggest that by excavating right down to the standing water and then placing a rubber membrane, 6" of coarse gravel and 6" concrete slab, we will have a slab with its top at - 46" that will not "float" under worst case scenario. I would also place two independent drain tile systems, one under the slab, and one a bit higher outside the footings, both piped to two sump pits and pumped to daylight. The foregoing, however, is purely academic. Does anyone have some real world experience in this area that they would be so kind as to share?
Thank you all.





RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
http://www.cwservices.com.au/voltex.htm
Recommend that you use water-stop in the concrete joints also. I work in an area where the water table is (correctly) assumed to be ground level - my opinion of "traditional" PVC water-stop is very low, it is rarely installed correctly. About 20 years ago started using bentionite based water-stop, here is a link
http://www.cwservices.com.au/waterstop.htm
It seems to install and perform much better than PVC.
You may want to start your foundation stone well below the "minimum" water level to ensure that it's base is always under water, even during "droughts".
Likewise for floatation (and water-proofing & water-stop), assuming a signicantly higher water table than the "maximum" may be wise.
We don't even attempt to put in exterior perimeter drainage; the ground is flat - no where to drain to, and don't want to depend on pumps. Of course your case may be different.
Best Wishes
www.SlideRuleEra.net
RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
Where are you with this problem?
It makes a difference.
RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
Two & 1/2 blocks (maybe 1,000 - 1,500 feet) inland of mean high tide.
RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level
When I mentioned the "Hudson River", I did not think that was your problem off Sandy Hook. Rain & Flooding in March was a nightmare in NJ . Good Luck.
RE: Basement Floor Below Seasonal High Water Level